disposablehero27

Man, i thought i had found the answer... still when accelerating the cobra is still shutting off. cleaned inside, replaced the new IAC, New tank of gas, somethings gotta give. Any other ideas?

cliffyk

I would suspect the TB is not bleeding enough air at closed throttle (I.e. it's closing too tightly) and the IAC cannot compensate for the "chopped off" air flow quickly enough--try tweaking the throttle plate stop screw, making it more open in 1/8th turn increments.

You need disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes between adjustments to reset the KAM, and let the engine idle for at least 15 minutes after restarting...

disposablehero27

would the aftermarket accufaub have a plate stop screw as well as the stock? where would it be located?

cliffyk

I have never seen a TB without one--it should be located near the bell crank on the non-TPS side of the TB.

Here's where it is on the OEM and my ProProducts 2V throttle body.


Here a link to the procedure for making the inital bleed setting on a GT.

SVTeeshirt

happened to my car lol wish cliffy woulda been around here for that thread. Cliff would that cause my car to bog under load as well?

disposablehero27

alright, i'll give that a shot next, see what i can do. I dont' have a feeler guage, would it be safe to just.."loosen" it very lightly, 1/8 of a turn.. try it out.. another 1/8th, and so on to see if a difference is made?

cliffyk

Use a sliver of a typical business card, not the real heavy sort--it will be 0.009" to 0.011", close enough. The laser/inkjet card stock is usually 0.010" right on the nose...

cliffyk

Bogging is generally an overly rich mix, severely retarded spark, or a loss of charge velocity from a grossly oversize throttle body...

What mods do you have?

disposablehero27

thanks, will do

SVTeeshirt

[QUOTE=cliffyk;6485868]Bogging is generally an overly rich mix, severely retarded spark, or a loss of charge velocity from a grossly oversize throttle body...

just a muffler, i even swapped my x-pipe back to stock, stock TB i did buy a new MAF cleaned the IAC. I did find some wire that was poorly taped to say the least and was corroaded so i stripped down to good wire put em back together and retaped, it was arc-ing so bad im suprized it didn't catch fire, i found a crack in the hose that runs from the intake tube back across the middle to the intake manifold (4v) and replaced the hose, cleaned the IAC. Replaced the sparkplugs and wires/ Coolant temp sensor(autozone told me it was throwing CTS mod). Then still bogging, better but still bogging, as well as shutting down whenever i would put my foot on the clutch from a high rate of speed, if i downshifted to slow the car would shut off and come back to life once i let off the clutch, if i didn't let off the clutch it would simply shut off.

Im hoping its not a horrible wiring issue, im thinking i should have replaced the IAC but after i did pretty much everything listed above i took it for a diagnostic test and they told me i needed new plugs and wires.... when the plugs and wires in there were 2 weeks new, with the correct gap, oh and the wires seemed to be burned near the plug. what would cause this?

with that said it was enough to make me pull the car off the road and just do a complete rebuild, but i'm still wondering what the hell was causing this... should i have replaced the IAC? i was just so fed up with spending $ on it.