CEL P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Malfunction: Input
#11
any ideas where I can pick up that sensor from? Is that a "dealer only" piece? What about picking it up off a junk yard car? Is it the sensor that sits on top of the fuel rail on the driver side of the car? (black "box" with a few wires out the back)
#12
P0190 Code
I had the CEL P0190 code come up on my 01 GT. The engine would turn over, but not start. If I let it sit for awhile it would start and run fine until it was shut off. It did this for about two weeks until she finally gave up the ghost and would not start at all.
The problem is, alot of the forum posts give technical information about the problem, but rarely do people give the solution to thier particular problem.
There was zero pressure in the fuel rail as expected. I went ahead and checked the sensor resistance which was fine. All of the fuses were intact. Input voltage with the key on was 5.96 volts which again was fine. All electrical connections were dry and intact. This lead to the fuel pump which was suspect all the time, but the most inaccessable of the items to check.
It turns out that the pump doesn't fully go bad all at once. Certain turns on the winding may burn out determining whether or not the pump will run depending on where the rotor stops which may result in intermittent operation and overlooking the fuel pump all together.
The fuel pump was replaced and the car ran fine after the CEL was reset.
One thing I noticed and that you may want to check while you have the fuel tank down is the filler neck. There is a piece of "wire loom" type of plastic around the bottom of the filler neck that allows moisture, dirt, and corrosive materials to hang out around the pipe. Remove this and check the fill neck to make sure that it isn't corroding through. Don't bother reinstalling the plastic, instead just either paint or undercoat the tube.
The problem is, alot of the forum posts give technical information about the problem, but rarely do people give the solution to thier particular problem.
There was zero pressure in the fuel rail as expected. I went ahead and checked the sensor resistance which was fine. All of the fuses were intact. Input voltage with the key on was 5.96 volts which again was fine. All electrical connections were dry and intact. This lead to the fuel pump which was suspect all the time, but the most inaccessable of the items to check.
It turns out that the pump doesn't fully go bad all at once. Certain turns on the winding may burn out determining whether or not the pump will run depending on where the rotor stops which may result in intermittent operation and overlooking the fuel pump all together.
The fuel pump was replaced and the car ran fine after the CEL was reset.
One thing I noticed and that you may want to check while you have the fuel tank down is the filler neck. There is a piece of "wire loom" type of plastic around the bottom of the filler neck that allows moisture, dirt, and corrosive materials to hang out around the pipe. Remove this and check the fill neck to make sure that it isn't corroding through. Don't bother reinstalling the plastic, instead just either paint or undercoat the tube.
#14
Works fine, no problems
The problem wasn't the sensor, it was a bad fuel pump. Apparently the fuel pump can go bad in stages over time as the windings burn out. It depends on where the motor rotor stops as to whether it will start the next time and eventually it will just fail all together like mine did.
Replaced the fuel pump, reset the CEL, and she runs awesomely now.
Replaced the fuel pump, reset the CEL, and she runs awesomely now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TfcCDR
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
1
09-14-2015 12:08 PM
tj@steeda
Steeda Autosports
0
09-08-2015 11:50 AM
zanemoseley
2005-2014 Mustangs
6
09-06-2015 12:58 PM