96 Gt shuts off when put in park
10-31-2009, 07:02 PM
#11
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
try cleaning the IAC...i know mine would stall out my car when i turned the a/c off and when i put it into neutral (5spd)....it takes like 10mins, and if it doesnt work, no harm done...10mins, and a can of throttle body cleaner
11-01-2009, 09:14 AM
#12
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 66
Both of those codes indicate running lean on bank 1&2. The fact you replaced the EGR valve and then the symptoms start and you get these 2 codes later all kinda match up. I would check all of your vacuum lines,especially the vacuum end of the PCV line where it connects on the back end of the throttle body. and clean your maf and then disconnect your battery for about 10 minutes to let the pcm reset and see if it throws codes again or acts up. If that doesn't work you may have installed a bad EGR valve.99% of the time two O2 sensors aren't going to go bad at the same time and especially on different banks. You didn't get it from.... Auto Zone did ya? heh and I'm in Bartlett btw Where are you?
Nice Chime in BlackPony, I totally forgot about the IAC that could be the culprit.It would eb nice if that was It!
Nice Chime in BlackPony, I totally forgot about the IAC that could be the culprit.It would eb nice if that was It!
11-01-2009, 11:09 AM
#13
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 48
I'm in Bartlett too. I tested the IAC and it's OK. The 2 new codes were my fault. I installed some MIL eliminators and caused the codes. Back to normal now, those codes are gone.
Still have the crazy shut off issue though. Tried it in both Park and Neutral. Shift to either after driving for a while and the RPMs drop to aprox 300-350 then it shuts down. Everything else seems OK. Idles great, runs good, no misses, etc.
Still have the crazy shut off issue though. Tried it in both Park and Neutral. Shift to either after driving for a while and the RPMs drop to aprox 300-350 then it shuts down. Everything else seems OK. Idles great, runs good, no misses, etc.
11-01-2009, 03:11 PM
#14
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 66
If it's not the IAC then I dunno dude, I would say a vacuum leak somewhere,Possibly a delapitated boot or something.How did you test it if you don't mind me asking? When I test I just take it out and have someone turn the key to the on position and you should see it move in or out to adjust itself for engine startup.Did you clean the passages before you put it back in? Cool your in Bartlett too Small world!
11-01-2009, 05:04 PM
#15
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 48
Read in a manual to check the contacts with an ohm memter and if they read between 7& 13 it's OK. Mine was 9.5 when I checked it. Didn't know about the manual test. Fuel pump seems to be whining pretty loud while car is running. Might have something to do with it?
11-04-2009, 08:29 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 21
Sorry I hadn't been responding right away, I have been working a lot. I have not had access to my daughters car yet this week but this afternoon I told her to stay home so we could put brakes on the front as well as trouble shoot this problem.
I will reevalutate this afternoon and answer your specific questions then as well as double check for vaccum leaks. We had one before after reinstalling the engine but it had more obvious/typical symptoms that time. I assume from Bucknbass that he is getting a check engine light due to the codes?
I will reevalutate this afternoon and answer your specific questions then as well as double check for vaccum leaks. We had one before after reinstalling the engine but it had more obvious/typical symptoms that time. I assume from Bucknbass that he is getting a check engine light due to the codes?
11-04-2009, 10:23 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 21
The air conditioning aspect of this has seemed to fix itself for now. When in drive the car idles about 800 RPM. When the shifter is moved to Park the idle drops to about 400 consistently, faulters then returns to 800 occasionally. Most of the time the engine shuts off completely. When restarting it faulters for a second before accelerating to idle. Did not find any vaccum leaks. What is an appropriate cleaner for the IAC?
12-10-2009, 05:47 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 21
Never did fix it. Cleaned the IAC and Throttle position sensor, no help. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I am going to swap everything above the intake manifold off our 98gt to the 96gt and see if the problem goes away. I don't understand why it only shuts off when shifting to park or neutral. Bucknbass's problem was similar to the conditions described in a Ford Service letter I found on AllDataDIY.com, it even gave those same codes. Had to do with the airflow sensor not reading accurately creating lean conditions.
12-11-2009, 10:01 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 21
Swapped the inlet tube with the MAF and temp sensor from car to car. Noticed the temp sensor was turned so that air wouldn't flow through it. Installed it in the 1998gt pointed the right way and that car ran the good as before. The 1996gt symptoms went away with installation of the new parts. Only difference between the cars are that the 1998 rpm increases when placed in neutral, the 1996 drops a couple hundered rpm then recovers.