PowerPonyPatrol

I installed a new white face gauge kit that required popping the needles. Tried and made sure they were placed the same as before, but after installation some of them were off. So I put it in diagnostic mode to read off the digital display and adjust the needles accordingly, but they are still off. Does anyone know the best way of adjusting the gauges or correcting them?

On a side note, I cycled though all the readings and can figure out all but the temp, is it it the one labeled DegC (degrees celcius maybe?). Also for the readings, does anyone know what the numbers are based on or min/max values rank? Such as battery sits at 170, or my fuel was at 075, but what do the numbers mean? So that I can adjust the gauges appropriately. Thanks.

IRSmart

How to calibrate your gauges to 100% accuracy

that's something another member and myself discovered last year over at the corral. i can't believe that no one ever discovered this before today, but there you go. fail-proof and 100% accurate

cliffyk

Here's my contribution to understanding the IHEC (Integrated Hybrid Electronic Cluster) test mode...

PowerPonyPatrol

Awesome writeup, thanks! I'll try that out this weekend and see how it goes, doesn't seem too bad, and looks way more accurate than my method lol. Also thanks for the IHEC info, now I'll know what I'm looking at and and confirm accuracy.

PowerPonyPatrol

Ok so I followed that gauge calibration exactly, and it seemed to work. Gauges marked on the middle, put cluster back together, applied power again and gauges went to middle again. However, I still have a problem with the speedo and tach. The other gauges seem right, but the speedo seems to be 8-10mph fast (same as before) and the tach is about 150-200 rpms low. So I'm not sure what is going on, but the only thing I can think of is to take them apart and purposely place the speedo about 8mph lower than center, and the rpm needle a tick higher. Not sure if this would matter, but I also have a SpeedCal wired in to adjust the computer for lower tire size (winter tires on right now) but not sure if that should affect the needles, just thought they read from the computer. Any suggestions on what else I can do?

IRSmart

your speedcal is most likely not set properly and is messing with your speedo. my how-to will put your gauges to 100% accuracy.

PowerPonyPatrol

Alright, I will try that first before messing with the gauge cluster again, because that should be set. I may just rip out the SpeedCal completely since I have a hand held tuner now that can adjust the settings for different tire sizes.

On a side note, if the SpeedCal is the problem, then that would mean it only affects the analog gauge readout, and not the digital, which would be odd. I did notice that the tac was accurate after calibrating when I started and held a 2k RPMs, but after driving down the interstate, it was off, so maybe that is the problem. I'll let you know the results. Thanks for your help.

Eagle2000GT

Unfortunately zero on the speedometer isn't zero. It's 7-8 mph. You have to have the car in gear and the wheels turning in order to put the speedometer needle back on correctly. I put the car on maintenance stands with the rear wheels off the ground.

Put the odometer in diagnostic mode and go the the ENG display. This is the English measurement system in miles per hour. Now your odometer will display your speed. Put the car in gear and accelerate. I went up to 20 mph on the odometer and held it there. I then snapped the needle on at 20 mph. When I got done the speedometer needle was less than 1/2 mph off.

You can check you tach needle in diagnostic mode as well.