brandonse24

maybe 1/2 inch..

cliffyk

That's why the pedal is vibrating then, the cable is too tight and the ToB is making constant contact with Belleville spring--adjust it to 1-1/4" or so of free play and the vibration should go away...

brandonse24

ok, went and had it adjusted again now its got the right slack.. and still doing it, only now im wondering if it not something close to the clutch,... after all i replaced, im thinking maybe the tranny mount is messed up, or maybe the clutch fork is bent alittle, because the clutch is staying engaged a lil, only way i can get it in gear is to slam it, an it instantly starts to roll.... clutch, cable, quadrant, fluid are all good, whats your opinions?

counts7

Did anyone ever come up with a fix for this? I have a 2003 Mach 1 and it is doing the exact same thing. First I replaced the clutch cable then went ahead and had a whole new clutch put in. The throw-out bearing on the old clutch was in rough shape so I know it needed to be changed but the car still acts the same! After about 20 minutes of driving the clutch gets extremely hard to push in and the car won't go into gear at all. Please help!

afried2006

Any insight to the solution here? I have an '03 GT with the stock setup with heavy clutch effort to operate. The extra effort seems to be causing the pedal adjuster to slip out of adjustment and I continue to have issues with clutch disengagement. I don't think my cable is the issue because I can disconnect it from the fork and it does not drag.

I don't know the history of this car but it seems totally stock, and the pedal effort should be 100% determined by the pressure plate, right? I'm not terribly excited about replacing parts that I don't know are bad, and since it sounds like others are having the same problem I'm hoping for some help. I honestly can't say that my clutch effort changes much from cold to warm but it's certainly noticeable when warm.

WhiteFoxGT

pressure plate worn out or the bearing retainer that the TOB slides on is grooved

afried2006

I'm inclined to say you are probably right, White Fox, even though it's not the answer I was hoping for. It might be wasted effort but I'll see if I can possibly coax some lube into the sliding surface of the TOB to limp by a little longer. I realize pulling the clutch isn't a terrible job but I'm sure I'll find 10 other problems while I'm in there on a car with 146K. I'm new to the Mustang scene so I'm learning as I go.

I hate to change topics but if I'm committed to drop the clutch it's probably wise to address my engine oil pan gasket at the same time which I'm told is best accomplished by pulling the motor. Do you have any advise or maybe a better way to do it without having to pull the motor?

WhiteFoxGT

with the trans out you could possibly unbolt the motor mount nuts and lift the motor up a few inches. Ive only ever done pans with the motors out and i also have a tubular K member so space isnt an issue

afried2006

I'm prepping for my clutch job and read elsewhere about the TOB retainer being a part only available from Ford but I don't see any parts diagrams that show it, and my local dealer has no idea what I'm talking about. Any idea if this is a part that I should be looking for and where to get it? Otherwise if it's possible to save mine I will but don't want any surprises with the car in pieces.

Urambo Tauro

From what I understand about Ford part numbers, the front bearing retainer would probably be something like "F6ZZ-7050-A" or maybe "F6ZZ-7050-B". Throwing those at google does come up with a few results (several of which appear to be out of stock), including a cross reference to ATP FX238.