Help with S/C
02-03-2010, 09:04 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MI
Posts: 5,884
It depends on how much you want to spend. Personally, i'd go with a Kenne Bell, but that's because i like instant power at every rpm...not just in the upper revs.
If i was to do a centrifigual blower it would be either a Paxton or Vortech.
If i was to do a centrifigual blower it would be either a Paxton or Vortech.
02-03-2010, 09:22 AM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MI
Posts: 5,884
Well, remember the stock bottom end can only take 400-420 rwhp safetly. Any blower can make that pretty easily.
Since money isn't an issue go i'd go with a basic 9lb. Kenne Bell. You'll be at the cars limit, and it will be a blast due to broad power curve of a twin screw blower.
If you want really big power (money not being a problem again) you'll need to forge the motor. At that point you might want to consider a stroker kit. Then you can run more boost as well, and push 500-600hp while still running pump gas.
Since money isn't an issue go i'd go with a basic 9lb. Kenne Bell. You'll be at the cars limit, and it will be a blast due to broad power curve of a twin screw blower.
If you want really big power (money not being a problem again) you'll need to forge the motor. At that point you might want to consider a stroker kit. Then you can run more boost as well, and push 500-600hp while still running pump gas.
02-03-2010, 09:23 AM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shelbyville, Indiana
Posts: 1,088
There are a lot of good reliable superchargers on the market: Vortech, ProCharger, Kenne Bell. But not all superchargers are the same. The two most common types are centrifical and twin-screw. Centrificals bolt to the front of the motor. Twin-screws replace your intake. They are different in the way they build boost. Centrifical build boost in direct relationship to engine rpms. Twin-screws build boost a little sooner. The result is that twin-screws have a more low end torque than centrifical superchargers. Both superchargers will generate more horsepower than your stock rods and pistons can stand.
The type of supercharger you pick really depends on how you use your car. Is you car a daily driver? Do you drive it all year long? In the rain? In the snow? Will other people be driving your car? Will they be driving in bad weather?
I picked a ProCharger P-1SC centrifical supercharger because my car is a daily driver that is driven in all sorts of weather including snow by both my wife and myself. My wife does not drive a car hard. I do. A car with a centrifical supercharger behaves almost like a stock Mustang at low rpms. Mine generates only 1.8 lbs of boost at 2500 rpms so its not a problem when my wife drives in in bad weather. Yet when I want power, its there. Actually there isn't very much difference in performance between the two because no one races at 2500 rpm. You can make twin-screws behave. It just takes a little more throttle control.
Big power means different things to different people. Unlike the manufacturers we usually measure horsepower at the wheels. 400 hp at the crank is approximately 352 rwhp through a manual transmission and approximately 320 rwhp throug an automatic. Most tuners recommend no more than 370-380 rwhp on a stock motor. Some guys will take the risk and push their motors a little harder. A supercharger with 8 lbs of boost will usually get 350 rwhp (manual transmission). A supercharger with 10 lbs will get closer to 400 rwhp (manual) on a completely stock motor. It is recommended that you run an intercooler for anything over 8 lbs of boost. Hot air from the supercharger can cause premature detonation in the cylinder. That is the single biggest risk to supercharged motors. That is why a good tune is essential.
For centrifical superchargers, the Mongoose kit (Vortech supercharger) runs around $3,900 plus about $1,000 for installation. It does not come with an intercooler. My ProCharger was $4,500 plus installation. It came with a 3-core intercooler. When I looked at a Saleen twin-screw the installation was $1,800. Beware of "tuner kits." They do not come with everything you need.
If your definition of big power is a lot more than that then you need to be prepared to spend big money. You have to not only modify your motor but also your entire drive train and suspension.
The type of supercharger you pick really depends on how you use your car. Is you car a daily driver? Do you drive it all year long? In the rain? In the snow? Will other people be driving your car? Will they be driving in bad weather?
I picked a ProCharger P-1SC centrifical supercharger because my car is a daily driver that is driven in all sorts of weather including snow by both my wife and myself. My wife does not drive a car hard. I do. A car with a centrifical supercharger behaves almost like a stock Mustang at low rpms. Mine generates only 1.8 lbs of boost at 2500 rpms so its not a problem when my wife drives in in bad weather. Yet when I want power, its there. Actually there isn't very much difference in performance between the two because no one races at 2500 rpm. You can make twin-screws behave. It just takes a little more throttle control.
Big power means different things to different people. Unlike the manufacturers we usually measure horsepower at the wheels. 400 hp at the crank is approximately 352 rwhp through a manual transmission and approximately 320 rwhp throug an automatic. Most tuners recommend no more than 370-380 rwhp on a stock motor. Some guys will take the risk and push their motors a little harder. A supercharger with 8 lbs of boost will usually get 350 rwhp (manual transmission). A supercharger with 10 lbs will get closer to 400 rwhp (manual) on a completely stock motor. It is recommended that you run an intercooler for anything over 8 lbs of boost. Hot air from the supercharger can cause premature detonation in the cylinder. That is the single biggest risk to supercharged motors. That is why a good tune is essential.
For centrifical superchargers, the Mongoose kit (Vortech supercharger) runs around $3,900 plus about $1,000 for installation. It does not come with an intercooler. My ProCharger was $4,500 plus installation. It came with a 3-core intercooler. When I looked at a Saleen twin-screw the installation was $1,800. Beware of "tuner kits." They do not come with everything you need.
If your definition of big power is a lot more than that then you need to be prepared to spend big money. You have to not only modify your motor but also your entire drive train and suspension.
Last edited by Eagle2000GT; 02-03-2010 at 09:31 AM.
02-03-2010, 11:08 AM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shelbyville, Indiana
Posts: 1,088
Modular Power House has an excellent reputation. The top link is their Kenne Bell (twin-screw) supercharger. The bottom is their Vortech (centrifical) supercharger.
http://modularpowerhouse.com/product...a248a992272e7d
http://modularpowerhouse.com/product...a248a992272e7d
Exotic Performance Plus installed my ProCharger. This is ProCharger's basic kit with intercooler.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=195
http://modularpowerhouse.com/product...a248a992272e7d
http://modularpowerhouse.com/product...a248a992272e7d
Exotic Performance Plus installed my ProCharger. This is ProCharger's basic kit with intercooler.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=195
02-03-2010, 11:48 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
Posts: 2,797
if 400+hp is your desire then the internals need to be done, so my logical thinking would be to build the motor now then SC it later on.
02-03-2010, 01:43 PM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shelbyville, Indiana
Posts: 1,088
The most basic one. For Vortech I believe its the S-trim. Any of the basic models will generate more horsepower than the stock rods and pistons can hold. If you ever plan to build up the motor later it is more cost effective to buy a bigger supercharger initially than to upgrade later.