4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Changing Midpipe

Old 03-24-2010, 10:15 PM
  #1  
stlcardsfanp
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
stlcardsfanp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NE
Posts: 67
Default Changing Midpipe

I just got an x-pipe and am wondering how long it would take to swap it out from my factory h-pipe. My car has about 130k miles on it, so things might be a little rusty....Also, how hard is it to remove the o2 sensors and put them in the new one?

Thanks
stlcardsfanp is offline  
Old 03-24-2010, 10:20 PM
  #2  
hot sauce
2nd Gear Member
 
hot sauce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: texas
Posts: 311
Default

Originally Posted by stlcardsfanp
I just got an x-pipe and am wondering how long it would take to swap it out from my factory h-pipe. My car has about 130k miles on it, so things might be a little rusty....Also, how hard is it to remove the o2 sensors and put them in the new one?

Thanks
with the right tools and a lift 15-20 mins! without them it may best to go to a exhaust shop and pay them 45 dollars and call it a day
hot sauce is offline  
Old 03-24-2010, 10:22 PM
  #3  
stlcardsfanp
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
stlcardsfanp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NE
Posts: 67
Default

I've got ramps a jack and a socket set...
stlcardsfanp is offline  
Old 03-24-2010, 10:34 PM
  #4  
stlcardsfanp
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
stlcardsfanp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NE
Posts: 67
Default

Also, will I need a special gasket for the passenger side?
stlcardsfanp is offline  
Old 03-25-2010, 12:20 AM
  #5  
Z28KLR
4th Gear Member
 
Z28KLR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
Default

Might as well get the passenger side gasket since it should be pretty cheap(I think I was able to reuse mine), you will also need a swivel socket attachment to get to one or both of the bolts on the passenger side exhaust manifold, and maybe a 12" extension if I remember correctly. The o2's are easy to remove, but may be easiest to unplug them from their harnesses and pull them out once you get the factory midpipe on the ground. The one on the drivers side nearest the engine was a real bitch to plug back in as I recall (just hard to get my hand in there, think I had to do it from over the hood). Put lots of anti-seize on the o2's and manifold bolts before reinstalling, and of course be sure to do this when your engine is cold. If you're worried about the manifold bolts being a little rusted, it won't hurt to spray them with a little penetrating lube first, but may not be necessary (might as well do it anyway, as a broken bolt creates a real fun problem). I did mine on the garage floor with a friend, took like an hour, including beer and b.s.-ing. Good luck and have fun.
Z28KLR is offline  
Old 03-25-2010, 02:38 AM
  #6  
MidNightRunner
2nd Gear Member
 
MidNightRunner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: California
Posts: 213
Default

Be sure to spray them with a penetrating lube and let it sit for a while. I broke a bolt and it was a HUGE pain to get out. If you spray it it will be easy.
MidNightRunner is offline  
Old 03-25-2010, 05:40 AM
  #7  
uberstang1
Chupacabra
 
uberstang1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: wilkes-barre PA
Posts: 9,621
Default

It might be worth it picking up a cheap harbor freight o2 sensor socket or wrench to make life easy
uberstang1 is offline  
Old 03-25-2010, 07:43 AM
  #8  
stlcardsfanp
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
stlcardsfanp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NE
Posts: 67
Default

sounds good, thanks for the tips.
stlcardsfanp is offline  
Old 03-25-2010, 08:26 AM
  #9  
smitty2919
5th Gear Member
 
smitty2919's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
Posts: 2,797
Default

ahaha 15-20 min.....that would be pushing it even if the bolts didnt give any problems. but you're in texas lol you are an exception with no rusting problems lol

i did mine and has 35K mi on it....WITH a lift and all air tools and still took a good couple of hours with someone helping me. i like to take my time and not snap any bolts etc.

you...with ramps and sockets....goodluck. I would suggest a shop breaking loose your manifold bolts to avoid snaping them (in which case you need to go there anyways to have them fix it) by yourself it will be a bear to try and support the new midpipe in the back and to snug up the manifold bolts.

also yes, get a passenger gasket. in the end, price out how much to have a shop swap it, only reason i tackle stuff is becasue i have access to A LOT of tools to do the job. a driveway and ramps and sockets, i would weigh the hassel vs cost to have someone do it.

most shops i have gone to will give you a price range, bc they dont know how the manifold bolts will be (hard or easy) so if they are hard, most places are good on their word if it takes an extra hour to do the bolts. Plus they would have heat to help get them out.
smitty2919 is offline  
Old 03-25-2010, 09:13 AM
  #10  
K Z
2nd Gear Member
 
K Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: KY
Posts: 233
Default

I did mine by myself with ramps in my yard with just the socket set and swivel socet in a hour or two. The biggest part is the passenger side. Go ahead and get the gasket the some PB Blaster, spray the bolts very good. I put the car on ramps sprayed everything down and left it over night , then sprayed more on b4 breaking the bolts loose. Take ur time and u should b fine.
K Z is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Changing Midpipe



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:48 PM.