need rear control arm suggestions
#21
If you are into the 1/4 mile, and especially if your car is lowered, it is quite advantageous to have an adjustable UCA to set a good pinion anlge. This ONLY needs to be done once and is not too difficult to do, as I understand it.
If you were REALLY into the twisties, I would recommend you forgo the UCA's altogether and get a Pan-hard bar or Watts Link and torque-arm out back for a nice 3-link to tame that Mustang *** end!
Jazzer
If you were REALLY into the twisties, I would recommend you forgo the UCA's altogether and get a Pan-hard bar or Watts Link and torque-arm out back for a nice 3-link to tame that Mustang *** end!
Jazzer
#22
^ Go with a set of adjustable/spherical UCA's, such as the following:
Pro Series UCA
UMI Ultimate arms
I prefer the UPR because of the gusseting, but the UMI is a nice piece.
Jazzer
PS. The spherical end is CRITICAL in the UCA, as the poly solid arms are the MAJOR drawback to the Mustang 4 link. This spherical bearing will cause ZERO harm in your launching but be of HUGE benefit on the twisties to reduce the likelyhood and potential for snap-steer issues.
Pro Series UCA
UMI Ultimate arms
I prefer the UPR because of the gusseting, but the UMI is a nice piece.
Jazzer
PS. The spherical end is CRITICAL in the UCA, as the poly solid arms are the MAJOR drawback to the Mustang 4 link. This spherical bearing will cause ZERO harm in your launching but be of HUGE benefit on the twisties to reduce the likelyhood and potential for snap-steer issues.
#25
Hope this doesnt thread jack but since were talking about upper/lower control arms, and I dont know crap about them, I got a squeak in the rear when I go over bumps and when I'm accelerating and let it go really quick. Would this be the uca/lca's or could this be the rear suspension?
Second question. how do you know how far to adjust the adjustable control arm?
Third question. Do our mustangs have a stock torque box? if so were are they located at? how critical are they?
Second question. how do you know how far to adjust the adjustable control arm?
Third question. Do our mustangs have a stock torque box? if so were are they located at? how critical are they?
#26
The squeak is likely a bushing in one of the control arms, be it upper or lower
Adjust the UCA's to the same length as the OEM ones and will be fine. Someone really into the 1/4 mile will want about 2* of angle so the driveshaft is directly in line with the trans and rear end upon launch since the axle will roll a slight amount.
The torque box the point of connection for the front end of the LCA's. This "box" can get torn up under hard launches with sticky tires or tubular poly/poly LCA's. Most 1/4 mile guys worth their salt on the launch pad will re-enforce them so they don't get torn apart.
Hopefully Lizzyfan will read this thread as he needs a bit of schoolin' on the 1/4 mile from the kitty cat
Jazzer
Adjust the UCA's to the same length as the OEM ones and will be fine. Someone really into the 1/4 mile will want about 2* of angle so the driveshaft is directly in line with the trans and rear end upon launch since the axle will roll a slight amount.
The torque box the point of connection for the front end of the LCA's. This "box" can get torn up under hard launches with sticky tires or tubular poly/poly LCA's. Most 1/4 mile guys worth their salt on the launch pad will re-enforce them so they don't get torn apart.
Hopefully Lizzyfan will read this thread as he needs a bit of schoolin' on the 1/4 mile from the kitty cat
Jazzer
#27
Is this a nice compromise of cost/performance in this package Jazz?
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ackage-99.html
or would you still stick with the MMs? I was hoping to spend around $400 for LCA/UCA and subframes.....
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ackage-99.html
or would you still stick with the MMs? I was hoping to spend around $400 for LCA/UCA and subframes.....
#28
That set is fine, but the LCA's have no sway bar mount plates. If you want to run an OEM located sway bar, they will NOT work. If you decide to go with something such as an MMRSB, as I do and the #4 to be specific, they will be fine but this limits your options so choose wisely.
You can get the following UPR LCA's and will work with the OEM mounted sway bar position. For whatever reason, UPR doesn't seem to advertise the UCA's above and these particular arms as a package.
Jazzer
EDIT: The LCA's linked in Joey's thread are spherical/spherical and are designed to be more heavy duty for 1/4 mile use and a bit overkill *read a bit more noise* for the street, but will work just fine.
You can get the following UPR LCA's and will work with the OEM mounted sway bar position. For whatever reason, UPR doesn't seem to advertise the UCA's above and these particular arms as a package.
Jazzer
EDIT: The LCA's linked in Joey's thread are spherical/spherical and are designed to be more heavy duty for 1/4 mile use and a bit overkill *read a bit more noise* for the street, but will work just fine.
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 04-12-2010 at 09:28 AM. Reason: additional info
#29
That set is fine, but the LCA's have no sway bar mount plates. If you want to run an OEM located sway bar, they will NOT work. If you decide to go with something such as an MMRSB, as I do and the #4 to be specific, they will be fine but this limits your options so choose wisely.
You can get the following UPR LCA's and will work with the OEM mounted sway bar position. For whatever reason, UPR doesn't seem to advertise the UCA's above and these particular arms as a package.
Jazzer
EDIT: The LCA's linked in Joey's thread are spherical/spherical and are designed to be more heavy duty for 1/4 mile use and a bit overkill *read a bit more noise* for the street, but will work just fine.
You can get the following UPR LCA's and will work with the OEM mounted sway bar position. For whatever reason, UPR doesn't seem to advertise the UCA's above and these particular arms as a package.
Jazzer
EDIT: The LCA's linked in Joey's thread are spherical/spherical and are designed to be more heavy duty for 1/4 mile use and a bit overkill *read a bit more noise* for the street, but will work just fine.
#30
Because what you are asking is the same as asking whether or not you NEED to upgrade your rear shocks if you upgrade your front struts. You can do the fronts first, rears first, or do both at the same time. It's not necessary but if you can get it, then you migthaswell. Just don't get the MM uppers because they don't really seem to be that far off stock.