SVTeeshirt

Seems to have alot of resistance in the wires, Coil packs were tested and good as far as ohms went, no fire on 7 cylinder, spark plugs and wires are BRAND NEW, whatda**** is wrong?

IAC is bad but that wouldn't cause burnt plug boots.

right?

SVTeeshirt

cliffyk help meeeh.

SVTeeshirt

anyone at all anyone?

devongarver

OK lets start over with a little better description of the issue.
Which and how many boots are burned?
Is it burned from the outside in, or inside out?
Is it just the boot or the wire too? If so how much of the wire?
Are these old or new wires?
Are the stock or after market?
Do you have an aftermarket ignition system?(coil packs)
What is the resistance you measure from end to end in the plug wires?

Answer those, and I can help!

SVTeeshirt

Jeeze its been a while , if i recall correctly it is every boot on the drivers side, none of the wire just about a 1/2 inch up the boot.

The miss is on cylinder 7, i don't think the boot is burned here, a while back i had a spark plug shoot out of cylinder 5 i used a helicoil type deal to fix it.
Stock ignition. Wires are BRAND NEW duralast maybe? Autozone brand.
Not sure on the resistance from end to end as i took it to a shop to get a full diagnostics done and they did it a while back, told me there was resistance in the wires... then told me they could replace them for $488, i lol'd. I then replaced the wires again(second time) and the boots just burnt up again.. I'll go pull them to see EXACTLY which boots are burnt but tell me what you think in the meantime.

Coil packs were tested by resistance and good.

BRBs.

SVTeeshirt

okay so im not even sure if its burnt, to me it looks like it, to my dad he says it looks more like rust, i don't know how mositure is getting into the valve cover for it to be rust. This rust/bunrnt like substince appears on 4-6-8 (just a little at the start of the boot. 3 and 5, 5 is pretty bad almost the whole way up the boot.

cliffyk

I don't really have much to add other than that the Autozone Duralast wires are not really "wire" at all, but rather a fiberglass or Kevlar core coated or impregnated with a conductive (often latex based) material containing carbon. Most OEM wires are made of this donkey crap too.

The nominal resistance for these "wires" is 8kΩ to 10kΩ or more per foot, this is intended to reduce RFI by forcing a slower build-up of voltage during the ionisation of the gap. That your shop was apparently not aware of the normal somewhat high resistance of this sort of wire is somewhat surprising.

So the first thing I would do is, after dark, open the hood with the engine running and look for halos or actual arcing from the crap wires.

What plugs are you running, at what gap? Best with those wires would be platinum plugs with a 0.040" to 0.045" gap--if you gap them too wide the slow build-up to ionisation could find another path to ground other than through the plug gap.

If you are running conventional so-called "copper" plugs, take 'em out, throw them in the trash, and get a set of Champion single platinums in the proper heat range for your car.

You may also want to do a compression test, both dry and wet, low compression can cause misfiring at idle and lower rpms...

SVTeeshirt

care to explain the difference between dry and wet?

Im not sure what plugs i had, its been a while since i put them in, i do remember gapping them to .42, Car has been sitting for a while but the plugs/wires have really no miles on them.

If i were to get a complete new set of plugs and wires, what do you reccomend? Also, i don't know why it would only misfire on one cylinder as the computer analization said. I will probably go with the plugs and wires you reccomend, if this doesn't fix it, im tearing it apart like i should have a long time ago. Actually i half did... then i put it back together lol, bordem is a wonderful thing.

by the way i appreciate the help, its so hard being patient with this car, its been sitting longer than i've driven it, its my first car, and i kind of got "stuck" with it, at first it was cool, then it stopped working lol.

SVTeeshirt

I think its my injector on cylinder 7.

devongarver

Well Cliff beat me to it, damn I need internet back at home again...I can only log at at work..haha.

Anywho, I was going to point out that most after market wires are, as cliff said, a higher resistance. But, according to article I read, which very well could have been wrong, it said most factory wires were around 1500 ohms/ft.
Now, most aftermarket wires I have seen in the past were 300-500 ohms/ft.

I am not sure what the marks/residue could be. does it wipe off, or is the boot actually discolored all the way through?

Usually with an injector being the culprit you will get a code related to the injector, not just a general misfire.

I'd have to say start with the arc check at night for sure, you may have a simple leak in a wire.

Damn, I'm just gonna repeat everything Cliff said so I'm goign to stop typing lol.

Good Luck!