6BANGER98

Alright well currently I have a 97 GT block that I had re-done because I was going to put a GT motor back together. I came across a deal for cobra parts that I couldn’t pass down. I have every wiring harness and ECU out of a 97 cobra, re-done B 4v heads, timing cover, valve covers, intake manifold, imrc plates, alt., starter, Stewart water pump, aluminum drive shaft, long tube headers, H-pipe and a few other minor things.

I plan on putting a Kenne-Bell on it and putting it around 10 psi. Im not looking for a crazy hp car but a fun one around 400-425 hp at the wheel in summer. I have a 6 banger mustang for winter up here in PA. What I was going to put in the summer mustang is:
MMR 1000 rotating assembly
Kenne Bell 2.1 - going to fab an air to air intercooler
Cower stage II cams, springs, retainers
Pro-motion built tranny 5spd
Aeromotive fuel system


I’ve been reading to see if the bolt ups of a GT and cobra block are the same and cant seem to find a straight answer as far as the block. Will everything bolt up to the gt block properly like it would the cobra block and should I use the GT harnesses or the cobra swap? The blocks seem to have the same bolt patterns but a GT only has one knock sensor right in the top valley of the engine vs. the cobra has two (one on each side of the valley). Also the GT is a small block and cast iron vs. cobra is aluminum and a big block. So knowing that which set of harnesses and block should I use? Of course this is all going to be prof. tuned when im finished...

I’m hoping that I can use the GT block because I just had it machined .020 over and all ARP bolts put in...

Thanks

BraMas

"Also the GT is a small block and cast iron vs. cobra is aluminum and a big block."
What in the world are you talking about they are both 281 modular blocks

Stevecooper

Yes the B heads can be mounted to the GT block although I would rather use the teksid aluminum block as its much lighter and stronger.

Either way you are going to need a tune so I would keep the GT computer and harness. Ditch the IMRC plates for some deletes (or make them using the stock IMRC plates). On a B style head I would ditch the KB idea and go with a turbo or vortech. I am a avid fan of twin screw setups but not with out an air/water IC. Yes you could make an Air/Air but the effort is not worth it.

6BANGER98

alright. well if i change the block to a cobra block wont I have to change the harnesses over since everything will be cobra then?

Chances are Im going to buy the first KB i see that is a good deal and go from there. If I can find a GT KB with everything then ill just put all the GT parts back in and use the block...

There is no replacement for that instant torque. After driving a roots mustang I cant put a centri/turbo in there.

SVTeeshirt

actually they are both 281 cubic inch modular blocks.

small blocks refer to pushrods.

O.P

MRR 1000 is overkill... esp in a GT block, you will split the block before the internals.
If all you want is 425whp go with the MMR 600, might as well go with the shortblock. The stock cobra block from that year is a Teksid, which is strong as hell, aluminum as well. Either way you're not gonna hurt either block with 425whp. As mentioned you can use the GT block and it will be fine for your power goals.


I'm also not a fan of the non Air/water I/C Twin Screw, i don't think you should dismiss turbos untill you've been in a turbo mustang, i'm not gonna say turbo lag is a myth but its highly overated, its not nearly as bad as people make it out to be if you get the right size turbo(s) it spools almost as soon as you go WOT.