4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

drilling/slotting own rotors

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Old 05-06-2010, 08:10 AM
  #41  
Stevecooper
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Originally Posted by Aereon
nice camber wear=P whats your alignment specs? and have you thought about griggs SLA?
That was a few years back when I street drove the car on a daily basis. I remember the camber being somewhere around -1.5. Now with the Hoosiers I pretty much have it maxed at -3.1~

As far as the SLA yes I have thought about it, and yes I will but installing the Griggs SLA in the future. I have thought about running the agent 47 setup but I am unsure if it will work with my headers. As you can see they wrap around the K-member and A-arms.
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:53 PM
  #42  
Aereon
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Originally Posted by Stevecooper
That was a few years back when I street drove the car on a daily basis. I remember the camber being somewhere around -1.5. Now with the Hoosiers I pretty much have it maxed at -3.1~

As far as the SLA yes I have thought about it, and yes I will but installing the Griggs SLA in the future. I have thought about running the agent 47 setup but I am unsure if it will work with my headers. As you can see they wrap around the K-member and A-arms.
yea, thats what I was gonna ask, if they would actually bolt in without having to change the headers.

How are you liking your twin disc? is it DD friendly??
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Old 05-06-2010, 03:59 PM
  #43  
Stevecooper
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Originally Posted by Aereon
yea, thats what I was gonna ask, if they would actually bolt in without having to change the headers.

How are you liking your twin disc? is it DD friendly??
DD friendly is a hard thing to gauge... I would do it and never think twice but some may not like the noise it makes. Chatters (normal) when the pedal is depressed and can make a squeak *** you lift up. However the whole thing with flywheel is less than 15lbs and can handle 1000~ HP. That being said you could order the setup with different disks to get rid of the squeak.









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Old 05-09-2010, 09:53 PM
  #44  
yamanx
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Man I'd say go for it. Write up a program for some slots and mill them, and since its CNC I'm assuming its going to have some sort of lube being kept on the cutting head keeping your heat down. The cuts shouldn't be too deep or long anyways.

But like suggested I would try it on some used rotors first. Interested to see how it turns out.
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:30 AM
  #45  
smitty2919
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making the program to do it and executing the cutting is not the issue, more so how they would react after the fact since they are normally heat treated before the cuts are done.

like I said before, I could make something that looked like you want to pay for it....but the true test is that 80-30 mph stop on the highway if **** hits the fan you dont want your rotors cracking doing more damage.

this would be something I would like to learn more about what goes into calculating the depth of cuts and how/if the number of holes/slots affect the rigidity of the rotor etc. (not talking about braking efficiency as I have read serve no purpose for better braking numerous times in numerous articles)
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