dimebag

Its easier if u do 1 at a time...it keeps everything in place...and have the car on jack stands and use a jack on the front of the rear so you can tilt it and keep it where u need it

smythge

I already had solid adjustable uppers. Yes you would notice a difference with just lowers.

jr50rider

I got the lowers in last night. was much easier than i anticipated. going to tackle the uppers tonight. allthe bolts came out fine after they were snapped free. i am completely amazed at how much beefier the aftermarket arms are compared to the flimsey stockers. the rubber bushings were all torn apart, etc.

I can't wait to feel the difference these make.

jr50rider

upper and lowers are on and i took it out for a short ride this morning. the rear is like night and day. definately more solid. i think i need new upper arm bushings on the axle, as they looked a little tough and very flexible just by hand when mounting the arms.

any opinions on these bushings, replace with factory, upgrade to spherical, etc.?

also i took the quad shocks off as i read there is no need for them with aftermaket arms? any downfalls to this?

joeybutts

Maximum Motorsports is pretty specific that it's best to put fresh stockers back in. I just ordered them from MM since the dealer was more expensive. Go figure.

I'll be putting mine in on Wed/Thurs.

I plan on taking the quads off when I get the new axle upper bushings in.

jr50rider

let me know how it turns out. i will probably go that route as well.

DreamerGT

think you can elaborate on that?

joeybutts

From my thread (if you haven't seen it) -


"YES. The axle and body feel much more aligned when changing lanes, turning, anything not in a straight line. Also, the car feels more lively, not lively in the sense that it is moving around on you, but just ready. I don't know how to describe it. "

DreamerGT

nice, cant wait to get mine on.

joeybutts

Was a pain in the *** but we got them out and back in. This could be done by yourself, but was MUCH easier with a helping hand. Get a couple brews and a buddy to help.

Tools
good size hammer
long screwdriver (at least 18")
Some sort of rust penetrant/lubrication
drill and big drill bit
huge channel locks
1 7/16" socket
about 3' in extensions

The first one took us forever. The second one took about 25 minutes.

The parts of the bushing will be discussed as so - metal sleeve (piece in the middle), bushing(the rubber), shell (metal around the entire bushing), housing (place where the bushing goes).

Of course do the usual things to work on this part of the car, which I feel I shouldn't have to write but I know will be questioned. Jack the car up, put it on jack stands, chock the front tires, take the rear wheels off, jack up the axle, take off each UCA AS YOU REPLACE IT'S RESPECTIVE BUSHING, lower the axle to work.

1. Get some penetrant where the shell and housing meet. Depending on how bad your car is, I would do this as often as you think is needed. Mine wasn't rusted too bad, so I only applied once or twice. Also, take a measurement of how far the flange of the shell is away from the housing to make sure you put them in as far as is necessary.

2. Drill out as much of the rubber as possible. Pull out the metal sleeve when you can and the rubber as it comes out. You are just looking to get as much rubber out to relieve any pressure the rubber pushing is putting on the metal sleeve.

3. Using the big screwdriver, hammer a notch into the flange of the shell and keep hammering till the shell is cut as far as you can get it. Then put the screwdriver into the crack where the shell meets the housing and begin hammering it in, essentially crushing the shell in. Basically work your way around spiraling the shell in. When you have a fair amount hammered in, use the channel locks to start bending the flange of the shell in. Eventually you should have enough of it off the housing that you can hammer the shell through the housing.

4. Getting the bushing in is almost as much "fun" as it was getting it out. Using the 1 7/16" socket (I'm pretty sure that was the size) seat it on the flange. Then use enough extensions to reach outside the wheel well. Have fun hammering away. You need to make sure the socket is seated flush with the flange otherwise the bushing will not move. Swing away, measuring every once in a while.

That's it. That was the best way we found to do it without buying the tool. I should have taken pics but didn't even think of it. Let me know if any of this is unclear or you have any questions!

On a side note, you may be asking, "But Joey, why didn't you try pulling them out instead of hammering them through?" Well on the first one, we did try pulling it out, and it just wouldn't happen. We fought with it for a good hour probably. Why couldn't we pull it out? Well the shell was bent out/flared on the backside from use and abuse. Check yours to see if they are. My car has 120K on it. How many does yours?

So, did it make a difference? Sure did. I had a huge thunk/clunk noise in the rear end. Now it is very slight due to the heim joints on my control arms. So I know I will have some noise in a trade for an improved handling car.