4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Issues after changing steeda clutch cable kit

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-14-2010, 12:33 AM
  #1  
nascrchi
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
nascrchi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
Default Issues after changing steeda clutch cable kit

I bought the whole kit- adjuster, quadrat and cable.
I installed it today, and for those of you who remember my previous thread, it wasn't my clutch fork. aahh, relief.

the pedal feels much better, but now I can hear my throw-out bearing. If I tap the clutch pedal about 2cm in, the little whistle stops.

what do I do to fix this?
nascrchi is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 12:36 AM
  #2  
H0SS302
6th Gear Member
 
H0SS302's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 10,551
Default

Aftermarket clutch cables are garbage. The best way to do it is modify a stock cable to accept the steeda firewall adjuster. its very easy.

Just keep adjusting stuff, but those cables stretch easily so your going to have to keep screwing with it. Good luck!
H0SS302 is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 02:15 AM
  #3  
nascrchi
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
nascrchi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
Default

Originally Posted by H0SS302
Aftermarket clutch cables are garbage. The best way to do it is modify a stock cable to accept the steeda firewall adjuster. its very easy.

Just keep adjusting stuff, but those cables stretch easily so your going to have to keep screwing with it. Good luck!
So the steeda cable is causing the whistleing?
I bought the whole kit, otherwise I'd be losing money.

Anyway, I hope I have goodluck with this one. Do I keep tightening it until the whistleing stops?
nascrchi is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 03:33 AM
  #4  
cliffyk
TECH SAVANT
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Default

You tighten it until the noise stops, however make sure you still have 1" to 1-1/4" free play in the pedal.

If you can't eliminate the noise by tightening the adjuster without getting the cable too tight (which will wear the ToB prematurely) then try loosening the adjuster.
cliffyk is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 04:45 AM
  #5  
MineralGrey
3rd Gear Member
 
MineralGrey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 901
Default

do you have an after market TOB or a ford? mine had the same issue with the TOB that came with my clutch i put it in the ford one in and no more whistling.
MineralGrey is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 11:45 AM
  #6  
nascrchi
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
nascrchi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
Default

Originally Posted by cliffyk
You tighten it until the noise stops, however make sure you still have 1" to 1-1/4" free play in the pedal.

If you can't eliminate the noise by tightening the adjuster without getting the cable too tight (which will wear the ToB prematurely) then try loosening the adjuster.
Well imma give the adjuster a few more clicks, although I think it;s about ready to give it's last few clicks. If not, I'll have to go under again and tighten it that way right?

Originally Posted by MineralGrey
do you have an after market TOB or a ford? mine had the same issue with the TOB that came with my clutch i put it in the ford one in and no more whistling.
I have the TOB from the Ram clutch kit. (7-8k miles) I may have to buy a better throw out bearing. aahh!!

Last edited by nascrchi; 05-14-2010 at 11:56 AM.
nascrchi is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 11:58 AM
  #7  
cliffyk
TECH SAVANT
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Default

Originally Posted by nascrchi
Well imma give the adjuster a few more clicks, although I think it;s about ready to give it's last few clicks. If not, I'll have to go under again and tighten it that way right?



I have the TOB from the Ram clutch kit. (7-8k miles)
How much free play does the pedal have? Push on it with your hand until you feel the TOB start to contact the clutch spring fingers--there should be at least 1" movement, 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" is best from what I have observed...
cliffyk is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 05:03 PM
  #8  
nascrchi
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
nascrchi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
Default

Originally Posted by cliffyk
How much free play does the pedal have? Push on it with your hand until you feel the TOB start to contact the clutch spring fingers--there should be at least 1" movement, 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" is best from what I have observed...
I have some freeplay, but the pedal is stiff all the way down. I loosened the firewall adjuster and tightened the cable at the bottom today. As I applied the ratchet wrench to the 13mm bolt, just a slight tug, the sound went away. All it took was a very slight tug and the clutch for and clutch stop shaking around as well as the TOB sound went away too. It's weird. So then , I turned the car back on, and adjusted the FWA alittle more but still, I can hear the TOB.

Dave, the man I took my car today for him to hear, said it's somewhat normal. He has a 95 5.0 supped up with a ikng cobra clutch, and the clutch cable kit as I do, and makes the same sound. He said once in a while it'll stop but he said he changed the TOB and still, nothing.

Right now I'm taking the car to the transmission mechanic I know, the one who replaced the clutch fork, just to make sure everything is okay. Little sound is gettin annoying.

I will let you know what happens just to see what you think. Always helps ettin a lot of diff points of views.
nascrchi is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 05:15 PM
  #9  
cliffyk
TECH SAVANT
 
cliffyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Default

If "some" free play is less than 1" then the problem is that the cable is too tight. This causes a persistent pre-load on the TOB which keeps it spinning and will lead to its premature failure. It should not be spinning when the clutch pedal is released.
cliffyk is offline  
Old 05-14-2010, 05:53 PM
  #10  
nascrchi
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
nascrchi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
Default

Originally Posted by cliffyk
If "some" free play is less than 1" then the problem is that the cable is too tight. This causes a persistent pre-load on the TOB which keeps it spinning and will lead to its premature failure. It should not be spinning when the clutch pedal is released.
Suonds like there's a very critical spot for the cable to be at, tight are loose wise. Because If I loosen it a bit, then it's alittle tough to put the shifter in gear.

The mechanic told me that I need to drive it for acouple of days to see if it stops on its own.

He asked me the distance in which the clutch starts to engage as I let go, and where the pedal is at. He said it should not be too soon or close to the floor. It is alittle close. Imma keep adjusting it and see if I get it.

I will try to loosen it a bit more to where the sounds goes away and the gears go in easily. thanks for the advice by the way!

Last edited by nascrchi; 05-14-2010 at 05:55 PM.
nascrchi is offline  


Quick Reply: Issues after changing steeda clutch cable kit



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:58 AM.