Issues after changing steeda clutch cable kit
#1
Issues after changing steeda clutch cable kit
I bought the whole kit- adjuster, quadrat and cable.
I installed it today, and for those of you who remember my previous thread, it wasn't my clutch fork. aahh, relief.
the pedal feels much better, but now I can hear my throw-out bearing. If I tap the clutch pedal about 2cm in, the little whistle stops.
what do I do to fix this?
I installed it today, and for those of you who remember my previous thread, it wasn't my clutch fork. aahh, relief.
the pedal feels much better, but now I can hear my throw-out bearing. If I tap the clutch pedal about 2cm in, the little whistle stops.
what do I do to fix this?
#2
Aftermarket clutch cables are garbage. The best way to do it is modify a stock cable to accept the steeda firewall adjuster. its very easy.
Just keep adjusting stuff, but those cables stretch easily so your going to have to keep screwing with it. Good luck!
Just keep adjusting stuff, but those cables stretch easily so your going to have to keep screwing with it. Good luck!
#3
I bought the whole kit, otherwise I'd be losing money.
Anyway, I hope I have goodluck with this one. Do I keep tightening it until the whistleing stops?
#4
You tighten it until the noise stops, however make sure you still have 1" to 1-1/4" free play in the pedal.
If you can't eliminate the noise by tightening the adjuster without getting the cable too tight (which will wear the ToB prematurely) then try loosening the adjuster.
If you can't eliminate the noise by tightening the adjuster without getting the cable too tight (which will wear the ToB prematurely) then try loosening the adjuster.
#6
You tighten it until the noise stops, however make sure you still have 1" to 1-1/4" free play in the pedal.
If you can't eliminate the noise by tightening the adjuster without getting the cable too tight (which will wear the ToB prematurely) then try loosening the adjuster.
If you can't eliminate the noise by tightening the adjuster without getting the cable too tight (which will wear the ToB prematurely) then try loosening the adjuster.
I have the TOB from the Ram clutch kit. (7-8k miles) I may have to buy a better throw out bearing. aahh!!
Last edited by nascrchi; 05-14-2010 at 11:56 AM.
#7
How much free play does the pedal have? Push on it with your hand until you feel the TOB start to contact the clutch spring fingers--there should be at least 1" movement, 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" is best from what I have observed...
#8
Dave, the man I took my car today for him to hear, said it's somewhat normal. He has a 95 5.0 supped up with a ikng cobra clutch, and the clutch cable kit as I do, and makes the same sound. He said once in a while it'll stop but he said he changed the TOB and still, nothing.
Right now I'm taking the car to the transmission mechanic I know, the one who replaced the clutch fork, just to make sure everything is okay. Little sound is gettin annoying.
I will let you know what happens just to see what you think. Always helps ettin a lot of diff points of views.
#9
If "some" free play is less than 1" then the problem is that the cable is too tight. This causes a persistent pre-load on the TOB which keeps it spinning and will lead to its premature failure. It should not be spinning when the clutch pedal is released.
#10
The mechanic told me that I need to drive it for acouple of days to see if it stops on its own.
He asked me the distance in which the clutch starts to engage as I let go, and where the pedal is at. He said it should not be too soon or close to the floor. It is alittle close. Imma keep adjusting it and see if I get it.
I will try to loosen it a bit more to where the sounds goes away and the gears go in easily. thanks for the advice by the way!
Last edited by nascrchi; 05-14-2010 at 05:55 PM.