FLMustangMan

Ok, this might be kinda long but I just want to make sure you guys have all the details so you can help me with best solution. Thanks.

Backstory:
I planned to get my car dynoed two saturdays ago. Before I changed oil and Procharger oil. i was switching to synthetic oil so i put in half synthetic blend and half regular oil. I also added a bottle of lucas oil staibilizer. i also seafoamed my car a month in half ago. I cleaned K&N air intake the normal way. I also fixed a intake manifold mini gasket leak. while i had the intake off i could see into the intake valves and they looked fine. when i put it all back together it seemed to run just fine and up untill i got it dynoed.

Dyno day:
I drove it 3.5 hrs to a shop to have it dynoed. I live in Salem, OR and shop was in Auburn, WA. Horse Power Ranch. Lots of hills/mountains. i drove 80mph on the freeway in 5th the whole way there. i ran 3/4s of a tank to get there, 1.75 hrs on dyno and 30 miles towards home. My gas milage was around 23mi/g. I installed a new p.m.a.s. blowthru air meter. I didnt plug it in till it was on dyno. I drove up using the old drawtru maf and tune.it kinda seemed like it was idling mildly rough on the way up. slightly noticable. The shop ran it a few times and started to get it dialed in. it started to smoke alittle towards the back driver side of the block. Guy said oil was blowing out of dipstick hole in block onto the header. Then we started having spark firing problems. they ran it few more times and said i was running 300rwhp with only 7.xx of boost. my pulley is a 3.23 i think. Pretty sure. before my gauge has read up 14psi when under boost. my tune in florida i was putting down 330rwhp. Eventually the header caught fire. the guy dumped water on it and it made some loud popping and banging. The engine shuddered then. shut down. We let it sit for 10+ mins. and sarted it up. ran fine except for the now noticable misfire. i drove it home. i could not get it in 5th going 80mph home cause it would shake so much. So i drove 75mph in 4th home. i got 2.5hrs home and it threw a engine light(portand). It said Cylinder 3 was misfiring. So i drove it the last hour home.

Present:
I changed the #3 plug so i could start it to figure if that would solve the missfire. it did. so i ran it for awhile, 20-30mins and then it began to missfire again. it even backfired loudly. so i pulled the #3 plug and it was covered in black and translucent stuff. im thinking oil but it smelled slightly like gasoline. i did a compression test and all cylinders but 3 were around 180 +/- psi. #3 is 0psi. It wont hold compression. So i talked to a mechanic friend and he said he saw all same things on a car that the exhaust valve was stuck open.

So my question is what do you guys think may be wrong?
If it is a valve how hard is pulling a head? What does it entail?
Do you have to remove the Timing cover at all?
anything else i may need to know?
What is the compression psi on these cars stock?

JC316

Could be a valve, or a hole in the piston. Pulling the head involves taking the intake off, the valve cover, the timing cover, the ehaust manifold and the timing chain. Not too bad a job on a 2V, even with the engine in the car.

If you drove all that way without tuning it, you could have ran lean and blew a hole in the piston. I would think that it would be smoking like a freight train, but stranger things have happened.

FLMustangMan

it still had the florida tune on. may not have been perfect but was fine. and i kept it under 2500rpms the whole way and outta boost. what does everyone else think

JC316

Ok, it should have been ok on the tune. The thing that is throwing me is the oil coming out the dipstick tube. That likely means that compression is reaching the oil pan directly. I would normally say cracked head, but you would be getting some compression. If you could get access to a fiber optic scope, you could check out the cylinder before pulling the head.

cliffyk

Regardless of what the issue is the head will have to come off, so rather than wringing your hands, and everyone spending time speculating as to what the problem might be, you really need to pull it and get a good look inside--once the head is off the problem will be obvious...

FLMustangMan

yeah. thats what i'm gonna do. pull the head off and see whats wrong. im gonna start looking around but just wondering if anyone knows where i can buy a head re-build kit. i've already found a head gasket kit and new timing kit.. i figure since i gotta pull the timing cover i might as well update it all with new stuff in case it decides to break right after i put the cover back on. and since i gotta pull one head ill pull them both and update all the hardware. I was thinking about have the heads cleaned. can a machine shop clean (is this polishing polishing) the head of all old carbon and what not. So about how much would this cost and where can i get a new head re-build kit. thanks all