New To Nitrous
05-31-2010, 10:46 AM
#12
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MI
Posts: 5,884
If you really research it, a dry kit (when setup properly of course) is every bit as safe as a wet kit. They both have their negatives and positives.
06-01-2010, 04:27 AM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
[QUOTE=mrtstang;7032590]If you really research it, a dry kit (when setup properly of course) is every bit as safe as a wet kit. They both have their negatives and positives.[/QUOTE]
Negatives & positives, what are they?
06-01-2010, 04:42 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location:
Posts: 3,189
good info. I didn't know a thing about nitrous and now I know a bit more, thanks.
Nitrous sounds like the drug dealers lifestyle, in lame terms. A drug dealer gets hooked to easy money and I'm sure getting hooked to easy HP sounds seemingly easy although very dangerous.
lol
I don't mean to hijack, but a dry kit shoots nitrous str8 into the combustion chamber and a wet kit shoots mixed with fuel right? Or wth am I talking about?
Nitrous sounds like the drug dealers lifestyle, in lame terms. A drug dealer gets hooked to easy money and I'm sure getting hooked to easy HP sounds seemingly easy although very dangerous.
lolI don't mean to hijack, but a dry kit shoots nitrous str8 into the combustion chamber and a wet kit shoots mixed with fuel right? Or wth am I talking about?
dry shot sprays nitrous onto your mass air flow sensor, travels down your intake tube, and into the combustion chamber. the nitrous sprayed on the maf makes the maf read colder air, which tells the computer to add more fuel VIA your injectors. nitrous itself is not a fuel. it breaks down in your combustion chamber to nitrogen and oxygen. if you had only nitrous going into your engine, you would be running dangerously lean. since the maf is reading "colder" air (colder air means denser which means more air per certain volume of hotter air) the computer adds more fuel to counter that extra air. this is why you HAVE to get the car tuned, so your car knows how much fuel to add when the maf is reading cold.
a wet shot sprays nitrous and fuel into your intake just before the throttle body (does NOT get sprayed on the maf) which goes into the combustion chamber that way. the car doesn't even realize nitrous has been sprayed it just has a large amount of air and fuel in the chambers.
positives and negatives:
wet kit: positives are it's much safer for the car. there is no risk of a slightly clogged injector not bieng able to add the fuel and making you go boom. you can typically spray a much higher shot of nitrous with a wet kit. bad thing is fuel puddling in the intake. your spraying fuel into your intake which can "cling" to the intake manifold walls and stuff like that and with high temperatures it can ignite and cause a "backfire". all it does is blows your intake manifold to shreds if you have a plastic one. rarely is there harm to the motor from this. go on youtube and look up nitrous backfire.
dry kit: sprays nitrous onto the maf. zero risk of nitrous backfires. bad thing is it relies on your computer and your injectors to get the appropriate amount of fuel added. higher risk of running lean and detonating than a wet kit (no risk to manifold, more risk to motor). they are typically cheaper to start with since you only need 1 solenoid for the nitrous. spraying nitrous on the maf can cause the maf to freeze especially if your nozzle is too close and your car will have a heart attack and limp out sometimes.
both when done RIGHT (proper installation, TUNING, safety switches, bottle heaters, etc...) are reasonably safe for the car.
06-01-2010, 05:29 PM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
don't know how you tried to word this...
dry shot sprays nitrous onto your mass air flow sensor, travels down your intake tube, and into the combustion chamber. the nitrous sprayed on the maf makes the maf read colder air, which tells the computer to add more fuel VIA your injectors. nitrous itself is not a fuel. it breaks down in your combustion chamber to nitrogen and oxygen. if you had only nitrous going into your engine, you would be running dangerously lean. since the maf is reading "colder" air (colder air means denser which means more air per certain volume of hotter air) the computer adds more fuel to counter that extra air. this is why you HAVE to get the car tuned, so your car knows how much fuel to add when the maf is reading cold.
a wet shot sprays nitrous and fuel into your intake just before the throttle body (does NOT get sprayed on the maf) which goes into the combustion chamber that way. the car doesn't even realize nitrous has been sprayed it just has a large amount of air and fuel in the chambers.
positives and negatives:
wet kit: positives are it's much safer for the car. there is no risk of a slightly clogged injector not bieng able to add the fuel and making you go boom. you can typically spray a much higher shot of nitrous with a wet kit. bad thing is fuel puddling in the intake. your spraying fuel into your intake which can "cling" to the intake manifold walls and stuff like that and with high temperatures it can ignite and cause a "backfire". all it does is blows your intake manifold to shreds if you have a plastic one. rarely is there harm to the motor from this. go on youtube and look up nitrous backfire.
dry kit: sprays nitrous onto the maf. zero risk of nitrous backfires. bad thing is it relies on your computer and your injectors to get the appropriate amount of fuel added. higher risk of running lean and detonating than a wet kit (no risk to manifold, more risk to motor). they are typically cheaper to start with since you only need 1 solenoid for the nitrous. spraying nitrous on the maf can cause the maf to freeze especially if your nozzle is too close and your car will have a heart attack and limp out sometimes.
both when done RIGHT (proper installation, TUNING, safety switches, bottle heaters, etc...) are reasonably safe for the car.
dry shot sprays nitrous onto your mass air flow sensor, travels down your intake tube, and into the combustion chamber. the nitrous sprayed on the maf makes the maf read colder air, which tells the computer to add more fuel VIA your injectors. nitrous itself is not a fuel. it breaks down in your combustion chamber to nitrogen and oxygen. if you had only nitrous going into your engine, you would be running dangerously lean. since the maf is reading "colder" air (colder air means denser which means more air per certain volume of hotter air) the computer adds more fuel to counter that extra air. this is why you HAVE to get the car tuned, so your car knows how much fuel to add when the maf is reading cold.
a wet shot sprays nitrous and fuel into your intake just before the throttle body (does NOT get sprayed on the maf) which goes into the combustion chamber that way. the car doesn't even realize nitrous has been sprayed it just has a large amount of air and fuel in the chambers.
positives and negatives:
wet kit: positives are it's much safer for the car. there is no risk of a slightly clogged injector not bieng able to add the fuel and making you go boom. you can typically spray a much higher shot of nitrous with a wet kit. bad thing is fuel puddling in the intake. your spraying fuel into your intake which can "cling" to the intake manifold walls and stuff like that and with high temperatures it can ignite and cause a "backfire". all it does is blows your intake manifold to shreds if you have a plastic one. rarely is there harm to the motor from this. go on youtube and look up nitrous backfire.
dry kit: sprays nitrous onto the maf. zero risk of nitrous backfires. bad thing is it relies on your computer and your injectors to get the appropriate amount of fuel added. higher risk of running lean and detonating than a wet kit (no risk to manifold, more risk to motor). they are typically cheaper to start with since you only need 1 solenoid for the nitrous. spraying nitrous on the maf can cause the maf to freeze especially if your nozzle is too close and your car will have a heart attack and limp out sometimes.
both when done RIGHT (proper installation, TUNING, safety switches, bottle heaters, etc...) are reasonably safe for the car.
06-01-2010, 05:36 PM
#18
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MI
Posts: 5,884
[QUOTE=nascrchi;7033885]alright.
MU71L4710N, pretty much summed it up. All i can tell you is that i've had my NOS dry kit on for over 2 years now, and haven't had a single issue. It's been extremely reliable and consistent.
As far as a wet kit hitting harder, it may be true with larger shots and what not, but in my own personal experience, that has not been the case at all. Case in point: My buddy has a NX wet kit on his HCI 95 Cobra, and they both hit with equal intensity. We both put down very similar numbers, and both have similar gearing, and even run the same custom dyno tune. In a roll race, when we honk it off (to make it fare, and see which kit hits harder, and which car itself is truly faster) we both pull off equally hard from the get go.
As far as a wet kit hitting harder, it may be true with larger shots and what not, but in my own personal experience, that has not been the case at all. Case in point: My buddy has a NX wet kit on his HCI 95 Cobra, and they both hit with equal intensity. We both put down very similar numbers, and both have similar gearing, and even run the same custom dyno tune. In a roll race, when we honk it off (to make it fare, and see which kit hits harder, and which car itself is truly faster) we both pull off equally hard from the get go.
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