OK...Heating up quick, new thermostat, still same
06-18-2010, 10:47 PM
#11
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
At the risk of sounding like a stuck record--it's the radiator.
The "easy way" to check it is to find a real radiator shop that still has the equipment to flow check a radiator. However since those are few and far between (because it's cheaper to just replace the radiator).
If you can find a "mom-and-pop" sort of shop that can flow test the radiator then do that, but the quickest/best bet is to "just replace the radiator"...
The "easy way" to check it is to find a real radiator shop that still has the equipment to flow check a radiator. However since those are few and far between (because it's cheaper to just replace the radiator).
If you can find a "mom-and-pop" sort of shop that can flow test the radiator then do that, but the quickest/best bet is to "just replace the radiator"...
06-18-2010, 11:00 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location:
Posts: 964
ok so i guess ill just return the ccrm if it doesnt make it stop, then ill get a radiator...
man sometimes ford makes me pissed lol...its 125k miles so i guess needing a radiator isnt that big a deal lol
man sometimes ford makes me pissed lol...its 125k miles so i guess needing a radiator isnt that big a deal lol
06-19-2010, 07:47 AM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 362
AND ACTUALLY THE COOLANT THEY SELL YOU BREAKS DOWN FASTER THAN THE SPEC ON THE JUG. I DONT EVEN USE THE FORD STUFF, I USE HONDA ANTIFREEZE, MOSTLY CAUSE THATS WHERE I WORK, BUT IT DOES A GREAT JOB.
Last edited by 98SN95; 06-19-2010 at 07:49 AM.
06-19-2010, 09:25 PM
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
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In fact having the AC on is what is pushing the radiator over the edge.
If you look under the hood you will see that the AC condenser is in front of the the engine cooling radiator (ECR). So, when the AC is on the air passing through the ECR has already absorbed the heat that has been pumped out of the cabin.
This additional heat (absorbed from the AC) represents potential capacity not available to cooling the engine, and this pushes the clogged ECR into saturation, making it unable to fully dissipate the engine generated heat...
Short story, replace the friggin' radiator and be done with it...
06-23-2010, 09:44 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Posts: 964
CLIFFY!
took the radiator out today, flushed it to check if it would help...rusty water was comin out the whole time...rinse out the system and turned the car on...had it reving for a few mins and here it comes again, started steaming(needle was about half ways so it wasnt heating...
as soon as i shut off the engine water started coming out the reservoir tank cap...the cap was tight but it felt like the threads were stripped...im not sure to replace the cap or the tank, or radiator now lol..
would the radiator being cleaned still need a new one? yes a/c was kicking and yes fans were on...
took the radiator out today, flushed it to check if it would help...rusty water was comin out the whole time...rinse out the system and turned the car on...had it reving for a few mins and here it comes again, started steaming(needle was about half ways so it wasnt heating...
as soon as i shut off the engine water started coming out the reservoir tank cap...the cap was tight but it felt like the threads were stripped...im not sure to replace the cap or the tank, or radiator now lol..
would the radiator being cleaned still need a new one? yes a/c was kicking and yes fans were on...
06-23-2010, 10:22 PM
#18
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: oregon
Posts: 1,501
well, couple thoughts. One you didnt put that cap on right.
Two, did you put coolant back in it or just water? i think our cars run at like 180ish normal operating temp, boiling point for water is 212, not a far cry from boiling water if everything isnt just so.
Three you may not have cleaned the clog in the radiator, since just getting sludge out doesnt gaurentee fixing the problem. altho it helps. I check radiators like this, take fan shroud off completely so you can touch the back of the radiator any where you want.
Warm the car up, Doesnt have to be full warm up, or over heating just to where the radiator starts to get warm or hot, then feel around it with the palm of your hand. If you clogged a few of the passages youll have cold spots on the radiator. If the heat is nice and even then your probebly fine there. Also id check top and bottom with your hand as well, just to make sure its heated even like its suposed to be.
Two, did you put coolant back in it or just water? i think our cars run at like 180ish normal operating temp, boiling point for water is 212, not a far cry from boiling water if everything isnt just so.
Three you may not have cleaned the clog in the radiator, since just getting sludge out doesnt gaurentee fixing the problem. altho it helps. I check radiators like this, take fan shroud off completely so you can touch the back of the radiator any where you want.
Warm the car up, Doesnt have to be full warm up, or over heating just to where the radiator starts to get warm or hot, then feel around it with the palm of your hand. If you clogged a few of the passages youll have cold spots on the radiator. If the heat is nice and even then your probebly fine there. Also id check top and bottom with your hand as well, just to make sure its heated even like its suposed to be.
06-24-2010, 09:14 AM
#19
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Bman' beat me to the question about "water or coolant", and what make this even worse than he stated is that the stock thermostat opens at 199°F and isn't fully open until 219°F--obviously straight water won't work...
"Anti-freeze" is not just a cold weather thing--it also increases the boiling point. A 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water boils at 225°F, the more complex newer products pick up a few degrees on top of that...
"Anti-freeze" is not just a cold weather thing--it also increases the boiling point. A 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water boils at 225°F, the more complex newer products pick up a few degrees on top of that...
06-24-2010, 11:07 AM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 939
Step back from the parts bin for a few minutes, and lets think about this. Stop throwing parts at it, and try to discover the real problem. You'll save a lot of time, money, and frustration that way.
The first thing to do is test the system and see what you get. Start with the radiater. When the engine is hot enough to open the thermostat, feel the radiater. It should be the hottest near the upp hose, and coolest at the lower hose. It should be a nice even temp spread. If there's a significant clog, you can feel it as a cold spot.
Running plain water will not cause a problem. The boiling temp at 16psi is about 217*. Plain water transfers heat better than a 50:50 coolant mix. Until you figure out the real problem, don't worry about that.
Do you still have the old thermostat? If so, check it on the stove, and make sure it's fully open by about 195*.
Go down to Autozone and borrow their coolant system test kit. They'll charge you $80, but you get it back when you return the kit.
Start by testing the cap. Make sure it can hold at least the rated pressure.
Second. While the engine is cold connect the tester to the filler neck, pressurize the cooling system to about 16-20 psi and see if it holds pressure. If not you have a leak somewhere. Keep the pressure there for 15-20 minutes while you check all your connections for leaks. If you don't find any, pull all the plugs and check the cylinders for water.
Third, with the engine cold connect the tester to the filler neck, but don't pressurize it. Start the engine, and watch the pressure gauge. As the engine warms up, the pressure should slowly and eveny rise to about 14-16psi and hold there. I'd bet that it will rapidly rise to about 20psi, and then pulsate. That indicates a blown head gasket. I think this is your problem.
All this testing takes about an hour or so. But it's free, and you'll save hours and dollars in fruitless parts swapping.
The first thing to do is test the system and see what you get. Start with the radiater. When the engine is hot enough to open the thermostat, feel the radiater. It should be the hottest near the upp hose, and coolest at the lower hose. It should be a nice even temp spread. If there's a significant clog, you can feel it as a cold spot.
Running plain water will not cause a problem. The boiling temp at 16psi is about 217*. Plain water transfers heat better than a 50:50 coolant mix. Until you figure out the real problem, don't worry about that.
Do you still have the old thermostat? If so, check it on the stove, and make sure it's fully open by about 195*.
Go down to Autozone and borrow their coolant system test kit. They'll charge you $80, but you get it back when you return the kit.
Start by testing the cap. Make sure it can hold at least the rated pressure.
Second. While the engine is cold connect the tester to the filler neck, pressurize the cooling system to about 16-20 psi and see if it holds pressure. If not you have a leak somewhere. Keep the pressure there for 15-20 minutes while you check all your connections for leaks. If you don't find any, pull all the plugs and check the cylinders for water.
Third, with the engine cold connect the tester to the filler neck, but don't pressurize it. Start the engine, and watch the pressure gauge. As the engine warms up, the pressure should slowly and eveny rise to about 14-16psi and hold there. I'd bet that it will rapidly rise to about 20psi, and then pulsate. That indicates a blown head gasket. I think this is your problem.
All this testing takes about an hour or so. But it's free, and you'll save hours and dollars in fruitless parts swapping.
