zero2005

yea, as uberstang said for tach.

for oil temp, since your gunna be runnin both temp + pressure, there's 2 ways. 1 would be to get a oil filter relocation block that moves your filter and allows you to have extra ports - or even just a sandwich type which just goes between your filter and the motor. you can then have your extra oil pressure + temp sensors coming off this block.

or, you could tap off the original pressure signal (or replace the whole sensor since im not sure if the stock sensor is compatible with all gauges - if you do replace the whole thing your stock gauge will read 0 tho) then use the extra port i was talking about for the temp.

here's an install on a Lotus using the block method (sandwich type, not relocation).
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f92/...install-74807/

Metalmania82

Thanks a lot, everyone. I did a lot of research the past few days. I actually ended up getting an oil pressure AND temperature gauge from Glow Shift. They have a sandwich adapter so I can hook up both gauges to one unit, and even a third one later if I want.

Thanks a lot guys, I'll be using this later when I install a water temp. gauge.

Metalmania82

Well, I actually have a couple more questions:

1: Where can I wire up the gauges to receive accessory 12v, or non-constant power? I know I can wire them up directly to the batter for the constant 12v.

2: Does each gauge have to be grounded in separate locations? What about the sending units?

uberstang1

Let me know what you think about you're glowshift gauges, I run an autometer narrowband air/fuel, Boost, and fuel pressure. But recently at the performance and style carlisle show in may i picked up a wideband air/fuel gauge from the glowshift stands and so far it seems to be a great gauge and we tested it with my buddys AEM eugeo gauge and they both have the same readings. It came with the same bosch o2 sensor as all the expensiver kits to I gave it a run and am happy with it so far.

Metalmania82

Yeah, I'll let you know. I'm getting them today and I'll be putting them in tonite.

Would you know where I can hook them all up to a non-constant 12V source?

uberstang1

There is a ton of constant 12v sources in the interior fuse box, all you need to do is get a test light and if the light lights up with the car off then u got a constant.

uberstang1

PS If you want to tap into it for the gauge i didn't know what u planned, i used an add-a-fuse and plugged all my gauges that required a constant into that or if u want u can just stick the end of the wire in with the tooth of the fuse lol sounds ghetto but it works.

zero2005

The add-a-fuse things are awesome, i was running one for my glowshift gauge, but i dont have a gauge mount since im married and broke as **** for now until i start flying lol. good thing i dont get into boost much... if your wondering -- i think its fuse # 15, theres a write up somewhere about it. the add-a-fuse things are between 2 and 7 $ depending on where you go.

the one thing i hate about the glowshift gauges, is most of them are tinted -- and im running my add-a-fuse off the fuse that connects to the gauge lights switch -- so if my lights are off, the gauge is off (its actually disconnected now because of my ghetto temporary wiring) so no lights = me not being able to see gauge when its depowered.

also, i myself, would love a peak re-call function, which glow shift doesn't offer. the only gauge i have seen thats as affordable as the glow shifts is ADD. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories) - i don't know anyone running this gauge, i only know of a couple of Evo X guys running their gauge faces. and it too is also tinted, and its white face tho that's not that big of a deal to me since im probably going to be getting white/red faced gauges to match...

IMO, glowshift is great for the smaller things, like boost/oil/water pressure/temp, but when it comes to a wideband or EGT, i'd stick mainstream. do yourself a favor, dont get just regular AFR - save the money and get a wideband, AFR (lean/stoich/rich gauge) is pretty useless other than a light show.

Metalmania82

Yeah, I've heard decent things about GlowShift. I got a bangin deal on 3 gauges and pillar pods together.

I got the 7series, which are tinted. I've read a lot of people wire them up to the dimmer switch. Thats what I want to do, but Im not sure which wires to tap in to.

Also, I planned on running all the constant power wires directly to the battery, but if I hook the gauges up to the dimmer, is that a constant or non constant soirce.

Basically I need help with this: which wire on the dimmer controls the dimming, and where is a good non-constant source of power. The gauges require both.

zero2005

Ok, so the 7 series gauges come with a ton of wires. really you only need to worry about 3...

1 is the "constant 12 volt" this one serves 1 purpose : memory keeping. basically if you change your gauge color to green by pushing that button on the gauge face, the next time you start up your car, its going to be green or whatever color you want. if you want it to reset to blue every time, simply dont hook this one up. you can hook this one up directly to the battery, it wont drain much voltage, or it shouldnt anyways...

the 2nd one, is the 12 volts for the actual gauge light to come on, this one you you want coming from the light source - like your dimmer switch. there is a fuse in your fuse panel, right under your steering wheel, which you can tap off of. i havent messed with it in awhile, but im *pretty sure* that the dimmer switch also works off this, so you dim your lights, your gauge will dim too! i'll get a picture up if i can in a minute. you can use the "add-a-circuit/fuse" from napa/autozone/adv auto to accomplish this, basically its a mini fuse that plugs into where the original fuse was, but you plug the original fuse on top, along with yet another fuse on top , but has a wire coming out of it. this new wire, is going to be the voltage signal for your gauge to power up its lights.

the only problem with this -- is that in order for the gauge to be on, you have to pull your light switch on either just the gauges/parking lights or full on... not that big of a deal, but with the tinted series, can be annoying if your not used to pulling the lights on...

now the last wire, well, the only thing left is to complete the circuit - a ground wire! thats right, find somewhere to wire this up, its as simple as finding a free bolt thats close to the gauge that is in contact with metal. the whole chassis *should* practically be a ground lol unless something is horribly wrong.

as for the colors of the wires, i dont have the glowshift instructions in front of me, but when you get them they'll have all the specifics.