wadson

I just recently had my car totalled (stupid midwest Tornado's) luckily my entire car wasn't ruined it actually was all cosmetic and instead of quoting the quick fix they quoted to replace panels. 2k and the car should be looking good again!

Anyway, I was looking into doing a few internal mods while the car is down getting fixed. I was looking on ebay and found quite a few 3v short blocks that were within my price range... what's the difference between the 3v block and the 2v block? I know all the valvetrain in the mod motors is located in the heads and I cannot imagine ford changing coolant/oil passages in a block just for an extra valve. Also what would it take to swap out 4v heads on a 2v block? or is it even worth it

Also I'm trying to up the compression ratio to around 12:1 and open up the heads a good amount. Would like to try to get some crazy numbers N/A but I'm not really sure how to get them. I'm sure there's thousands of guys before me asking the same questions but I am new to the performance deal.

Also does anyone have any advice for beefing up the TR3650? I have had issues since day one with synchro's... I think im on my third set now. I had someone a few years back that said part of the problem is the tranny and some was the 2.73 highway gears were way too high for the car... it moves all the stress to the transmission. Any help with all this would be great! Thanks

Dave

SilvrStang

If I was you dude Id go to a boneyard pull out a TEKSID or a WAP block . Send the heads outto MMR get them ported and buy the pistons and rods yourself,recut the crank and have a machine shop assemble it. Built shortblock will run you around 2000 bucks.

oxfordgt

Why would you want a 3v shortblock? They are no stronger then the 2v ones. Have fun running 12:1 on pump gas.

wadson

It's not so much that I would want to run a 3v block... Just saw that they were around what I wanted to spend... I definitely like the other idea better I'm guessing the TEKSID block will hold up to more and most likely cheaper to build?

I have heard a little bit about trying to run large compressions on pump fuel in Mustangs... the Knock sensor will all but become an enemy while doing so. I have always heard that around 13:1 is all you can get out of 93 but I'm not sure that it's even that high. Detonation and all that is terrible on cars. Then again it's probably not going to be a daily driver when I'm done so I'm not so much worried about running it on pump gas. More or less I am looking for something that cams hard and right about the 400 hp range with the ability to add some form of forced induction (most likely supercharger)

oxfordgt

Ok a teksid will cost you more to get and more to build. A 3v has the same parts as the 2v except different pistons(same material). There is no knock sensor on a GT. 11:1 is about as high as you can go on a 2v. To get 400rwhp NA you will need ported TFS heads, notched pistons, big NA cams (CMS), full exhaust and intake upgrades. If your gonna run high compression you won't be adding a supercharger down the road.

wadson

K thanks so pretty much I'm starting fresh and what I've heard is people that have no clue what's going on!!! What would feasibly be a couple good suggestions?? I want to freshen up the motor the original is at 78k and they were hard miles (damn that younger me)

stangt08

think about what you want to do down the road, because if you are looking for forced induction you are going to want a lower compression ratio

Crazycarnut

with only 78k on your motor I wouldnt change it out right now. Do some bolt on's gears and a tune. Remember you can always work on the motor you have no and when you decide you want to go ***** to the wall then you can buy or build a short block.