replace brakes?
#1
replace brakes?
i have a 96 gt with 49000 miles and whenever i stop from about 45 mph the steering wheels shakes really bad until i get to about 15 mph. i just had the alignment checked when i got new tires and they said it was fine. the brakes really dont feel that bad but i dont know if this is a sign that they need to be replaced. i dont think they have been replaced before. is they do need to be replaced are they very hard to do and what all would you suggest to get?
#3
RE: replace brakes?
Okay, seems like you have one of two or three problems problems.
1) Check and see if you get that same shake when slowing WITHOUT braking. If you do, then I'd think tierod ends.
2) If not, then you may have warped rotors. You would need to replace them and get new pads. It makes no difference if you have ABS, your rotors can still warp.
3) Something may be amiss in your steering linkage. Check the bolts from the rack back to make sure they are a) present and b) tightened.
Hope you find the problem
1) Check and see if you get that same shake when slowing WITHOUT braking. If you do, then I'd think tierod ends.
2) If not, then you may have warped rotors. You would need to replace them and get new pads. It makes no difference if you have ABS, your rotors can still warp.
3) Something may be amiss in your steering linkage. Check the bolts from the rack back to make sure they are a) present and b) tightened.
Hope you find the problem
#5
RE: replace brakes?
ORIGINAL: 04BlueGT
Okay, seems like you have one of two or three problems problems.
1) Check and see if you get that same shake when slowing WITHOUT braking. If you do, then I'd think tierod ends.
2) If not, then you may have warped rotors. You would need to replace them and get new pads. It makes no difference if you have ABS, your rotors can still warp.
3) Something may be amiss in your steering linkage. Check the bolts from the rack back to make sure they are a) present and b) tightened.
Hope you find the problem
Okay, seems like you have one of two or three problems problems.
1) Check and see if you get that same shake when slowing WITHOUT braking. If you do, then I'd think tierod ends.
2) If not, then you may have warped rotors. You would need to replace them and get new pads. It makes no difference if you have ABS, your rotors can still warp.
3) Something may be amiss in your steering linkage. Check the bolts from the rack back to make sure they are a) present and b) tightened.
Hope you find the problem
#6
RE: replace brakes?
Okay, if it shakes when you're not braking, then its not the brakes.
The problem resides in your suspension or steering. I would also check out the bearings, but I doubt that is the problem. You could just have a bad strut. Anyway, you have some work to. Ty to isolate it to one side or the other. The more you can tell the mechanic, the better off you both are. Remember, mechs are human, too. They have not seen everything.
Has the car been wrecked ever? You could have a problem stemming from an impact to the front end. Something to think about.
The problem resides in your suspension or steering. I would also check out the bearings, but I doubt that is the problem. You could just have a bad strut. Anyway, you have some work to. Ty to isolate it to one side or the other. The more you can tell the mechanic, the better off you both are. Remember, mechs are human, too. They have not seen everything.
Has the car been wrecked ever? You could have a problem stemming from an impact to the front end. Something to think about.
#7
RE: replace brakes?
It still could very well be the rotors even if he isnt braking. It all depends on how bad they are warped and how out of tolerance they are. I would naturally assume its the rotors since you havent changed them in 50,000 miles or had them turned by a machine shop.
The rotors are easy to change. First take off the front wheels. Then there are two bolts that hold the floater to the A arm. Take the entire assy off the car. The the rotor should come right off the studs. If it wont come off my hand them bump it with a rubber mallet. It will free up sooner or later. Make sure you change the pads and pay special attention to the way the pads come out of the caliper so you can put the new ones in the same way. DONT open the bleed valve on the caliper if you dont have to. To compress the cylinders in the caliper, just open the booster cap in the engine bay and then use an old brake pad and a C clamp to compress the cylinders back into the caliper.
Its easier than it sounds so dont get discouraged.
The rotors are easy to change. First take off the front wheels. Then there are two bolts that hold the floater to the A arm. Take the entire assy off the car. The the rotor should come right off the studs. If it wont come off my hand them bump it with a rubber mallet. It will free up sooner or later. Make sure you change the pads and pay special attention to the way the pads come out of the caliper so you can put the new ones in the same way. DONT open the bleed valve on the caliper if you dont have to. To compress the cylinders in the caliper, just open the booster cap in the engine bay and then use an old brake pad and a C clamp to compress the cylinders back into the caliper.
Its easier than it sounds so dont get discouraged.