help with suspension decision
#1
help with suspension decision
ok im have been putting by suspension setup together through the deal of the day at maxium motorsports and today is the last day for the deals and I need help decided what else to get. everthing that I already have is in my sig
option 1.standard torque arm for $360. I was gonna have the h&r race springs all the way around, but do I have to run the torque arm rear springs or can I use the h&r race springs? by the way I already bought the blistein HD for the the rear, but Will they work with the high spring rate of the torque arm springs?
option 2. MM front control arms. Which I know that I will have to run coil overs with them but that means I wasted money on the front springs by buying the h&r race springs, I wish you could buy just the rear springs.
I will have the blistein HD front struts so If I go coilover in the front would a 275-300 spring rate still be a good handling spring or should I go with the MM sport valved struts and get a more aggressive front spring rate.
I want it to ride nice and firm but not so much that my kidneys are gonna want to leave mybody. just so I can DD it and still have it for autocross
I just dont want to waste money by having to replace things that I already bought and If I had the money I would buy everything right now, but I dont so what would be th best thing to buy for the money.
option 1.standard torque arm for $360. I was gonna have the h&r race springs all the way around, but do I have to run the torque arm rear springs or can I use the h&r race springs? by the way I already bought the blistein HD for the the rear, but Will they work with the high spring rate of the torque arm springs?
option 2. MM front control arms. Which I know that I will have to run coil overs with them but that means I wasted money on the front springs by buying the h&r race springs, I wish you could buy just the rear springs.
I will have the blistein HD front struts so If I go coilover in the front would a 275-300 spring rate still be a good handling spring or should I go with the MM sport valved struts and get a more aggressive front spring rate.
I want it to ride nice and firm but not so much that my kidneys are gonna want to leave mybody. just so I can DD it and still have it for autocross
I just dont want to waste money by having to replace things that I already bought and If I had the money I would buy everything right now, but I dont so what would be th best thing to buy for the money.
#2
If it were me I would buy the H&R Race Springs and hold out on some of the other stuff for a while. You have already purchased most of the main suspension parts for your car.
And also did you buying that k-member require you to buy tubular a-arms too?
And also did you buying that k-member require you to buy tubular a-arms too?
#3
I'm hoping that jazzer or Tee281 will chime in about what coil over springs rates they would recomend So I know if I should get the blistein HDs or MM sport valve struts and if the blistien HD rear shocks would handle the spring rate of the MM torque arm springs.
#4
I just found your thread now... at 3:45 pm
I would recommend you go CO's up front as this is not only going to offer you an improved ride, but handling as well. As for rates, I run, or rather DID run, 300# springs up front on my traditional CO's and was wonderful on the street and very comprable to you average OEM located lowering spring. I could not tell the difference in comfort between those and the Saleen springs that were on my car when I purchased it.
I don't have an answer about your spring rates as they relate to the TA I know they must be heavier to support your car with the new geometry of the TA, but cannot say what valving to get. I am just not up to speed on all the different shocks out there. I can say, I run 200# springs out back on my ride with a TA and all is good.
Jazzer
I would recommend you go CO's up front as this is not only going to offer you an improved ride, but handling as well. As for rates, I run, or rather DID run, 300# springs up front on my traditional CO's and was wonderful on the street and very comprable to you average OEM located lowering spring. I could not tell the difference in comfort between those and the Saleen springs that were on my car when I purchased it.
I don't have an answer about your spring rates as they relate to the TA I know they must be heavier to support your car with the new geometry of the TA, but cannot say what valving to get. I am just not up to speed on all the different shocks out there. I can say, I run 200# springs out back on my ride with a TA and all is good.
Jazzer
#5
I just found your thread now... at 3:45 pm
I would recommend you go CO's up front as this is not only going to offer you an improved ride, but handling as well. As for rates, I run, or rather DID run, 300# springs up front on my traditional CO's and was wonderful on the street and very comprable to you average OEM located lowering spring. I could not tell the difference in comfort between those and the Saleen springs that were on my car when I purchased it.
I don't have an answer about your spring rates as they relate to the TA I know they must be heavier to support your car with the new geometry of the TA, but cannot say what valving to get. I am just not up to speed on all the different shocks out there. I can say, I run 200# springs out back on my ride with a TA and all is good.
Jazzer
I would recommend you go CO's up front as this is not only going to offer you an improved ride, but handling as well. As for rates, I run, or rather DID run, 300# springs up front on my traditional CO's and was wonderful on the street and very comprable to you average OEM located lowering spring. I could not tell the difference in comfort between those and the Saleen springs that were on my car when I purchased it.
I don't have an answer about your spring rates as they relate to the TA I know they must be heavier to support your car with the new geometry of the TA, but cannot say what valving to get. I am just not up to speed on all the different shocks out there. I can say, I run 200# springs out back on my ride with a TA and all is good.
Jazzer
Summit racing sells Steeda sprot springs for the rear only in a 325,350,400.
But that is gonna be to much for my shocks that I bought
My problem is I dont want to buy things twice and if I buy the stiff springs for the back, won't I will have to comment to the torque arm set up? I'm just not goona have the funds for that till next fall.
I thought maybe do the front CO's as planned and put these on the back
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...wering-Springs
Just so I can lower it untill I afford the torque arm and stiffer springs and they wont break the bank or should I even say it, cut the stock rear springs?
#6
I just found your thread now... at 3:45 pm
I would recommend you go CO's up front as this is not only going to offer you an improved ride, but handling as well. As for rates, I run, or rather DID run, 300# springs up front on my traditional CO's and was wonderful on the street and very comprable to you average OEM located lowering spring. I could not tell the difference in comfort between those and the Saleen springs that were on my car when I purchased it.
I don't have an answer about your spring rates as they relate to the TA I know they must be heavier to support your car with the new geometry of the TA, but cannot say what valving to get. I am just not up to speed on all the different shocks out there. I can say, I run 200# springs out back on my ride with a TA and all is good.
Jazzer
I would recommend you go CO's up front as this is not only going to offer you an improved ride, but handling as well. As for rates, I run, or rather DID run, 300# springs up front on my traditional CO's and was wonderful on the street and very comprable to you average OEM located lowering spring. I could not tell the difference in comfort between those and the Saleen springs that were on my car when I purchased it.
I don't have an answer about your spring rates as they relate to the TA I know they must be heavier to support your car with the new geometry of the TA, but cannot say what valving to get. I am just not up to speed on all the different shocks out there. I can say, I run 200# springs out back on my ride with a TA and all is good.
Jazzer
Summit racing sells Steeda sprot springs for the rear only in a 325,350,400.
But that is gonna be to much for my shocks that I bought
My problem is I dont want to buy things twice and if I buy the stiff springs for the back, won't I will have to comment to the torque arm set up? I'm just not goona have the funds for that till next fall.
I thought maybe do the front CO's as planned and put these on the back
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...wering-Springs
Just so I can lower it untill I afford the torque arm and stiffer springs and they wont reak the bank or should I even say it, cut the stock rear springs?
I funny That I go from just doing the road and track box to wanting more and more, very addicting to say the least. I may just call MM maonday and see what they recommend on rear springs
Last edited by 96meangreengt; 12-31-2010 at 06:47 PM.
#7
I don't know to which of the above posts to respond, 'cuz only the smallest of difference between them (and you didn't think I would notice)...
I hear you on buying things twice I have said it before, and will say it again.... suspension is VERY difficult to do efficiently and figured it out for yourself! I have spent an easy $4K on upgrading mods and new EXACTLY what I wanted when I had my suspension built
Talking to MM is the best thing to do. Just keep your ULTIMATE goal in mind prior to purchasing ANYTHING!
Jazzer
I hear you on buying things twice I have said it before, and will say it again.... suspension is VERY difficult to do efficiently and figured it out for yourself! I have spent an easy $4K on upgrading mods and new EXACTLY what I wanted when I had my suspension built
Talking to MM is the best thing to do. Just keep your ULTIMATE goal in mind prior to purchasing ANYTHING!
Jazzer
#8
I don't know to which of the above posts to respond, 'cuz only the smallest of difference between them (and you didn't think I would notice)...
I hear you on buying things twice I have said it before, and will say it again.... suspension is VERY difficult to do efficiently and figured it out for yourself! I have spent an easy $4K on upgrading mods and new EXACTLY what I wanted when I had my suspension built
Talking to MM is the best thing to do. Just keep your ULTIMATE goal in mind prior to purchasing ANYTHING!
Jazzer
I hear you on buying things twice I have said it before, and will say it again.... suspension is VERY difficult to do efficiently and figured it out for yourself! I have spent an easy $4K on upgrading mods and new EXACTLY what I wanted when I had my suspension built
Talking to MM is the best thing to do. Just keep your ULTIMATE goal in mind prior to purchasing ANYTHING!
Jazzer
As Jazzer said, even if you understand what you need it's going to cost so rather than guess it would be wise to buy an entire suspension system that has already been road and race tested.
JMO
John
#9
Yes!!! I will add that if you are unsure of what to do I would look at saving up for an entire system be it MM or whatever other company tickles your fancy.
As Jazzer said, even if you understand what you need it's going to cost so rather than guess it would be wise to buy an entire suspension system that has already been road and race tested.
JMO
John
As Jazzer said, even if you understand what you need it's going to cost so rather than guess it would be wise to buy an entire suspension system that has already been road and race tested.
JMO
John
#10
Don't remember the exact spring rates. Maybe 350 front/300 rear? I had told MM that I wanted the same spring rate that they run for their American Iron series race cars. It was pretty stiff but there was contact patch for days! I used the Bilsteins with Hypercoil springs.
Installed most of it myself. I had help with the K and stuff that you need a set of hands to hold stuff but for the most part I did it. Wasn't that hard. Hardest part was setting the pinion angle. That and drilling the holes in the rail to install the PHB bracket(Almost busted my thumb when the bit hung up on the rail!). Just make sure that when you start your install that it's on nice level ground so that you can set it up correctly.
Also, when you are installing the strut tower brace mock it up first to see if you need to move your fuse box back a little for the lid to clear. I installed mine and had to R & R it because the bar blocked the fuse box lid.
John
Last edited by Novanutcase; 01-03-2011 at 08:04 PM.
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