coilover spring hitting strut tower
02-21-2011, 05:18 AM
#11
i'm runnin the full QA1 kit, struts, a-arms (with poly bushings), k-member.
i'm running Maximum Motorsport CC plates.
i have ran 14x175 and 12x225 (mainly to try and fix QA1's crappy noise as hell **** *** struts).
hey uber, have you ever ran the QA1 arms? i was thinking the UPR arms would fix my problem, since the designs look similiar and the arms are probably shorter, the shorter arms would fix the problem in a snap -- the same way the crash bolts would. i asked UPR and they said "no it wont work" but i think they were just trying to sell me the whole kit. i also thought about just getting some fox arms.
you can blatantly tell that the a-arms are too long, being that the front wheels look more in line with the edge of the fender, and then if you look at the back end and see that the wheels are tucked in slightly your like "wtf?".
and its not just the flanges -- the spring -- at least mine does -- hits the actual tower. the only thing to do, would be to use a hammer to shape it, or bring the bottom of the strut inwards, either by crash bolt, or shorter arms, or maybe some sort of bracket.
i might just be a guinea pig and order up some UPR arms to test them to see if they fix it. good thing i got my tax return, damn car is getting expensive. lol.
i'm running Maximum Motorsport CC plates.
i have ran 14x175 and 12x225 (mainly to try and fix QA1's crappy noise as hell **** *** struts).
hey uber, have you ever ran the QA1 arms? i was thinking the UPR arms would fix my problem, since the designs look similiar and the arms are probably shorter, the shorter arms would fix the problem in a snap -- the same way the crash bolts would. i asked UPR and they said "no it wont work" but i think they were just trying to sell me the whole kit. i also thought about just getting some fox arms.
you can blatantly tell that the a-arms are too long, being that the front wheels look more in line with the edge of the fender, and then if you look at the back end and see that the wheels are tucked in slightly your like "wtf?".
and its not just the flanges -- the spring -- at least mine does -- hits the actual tower. the only thing to do, would be to use a hammer to shape it, or bring the bottom of the strut inwards, either by crash bolt, or shorter arms, or maybe some sort of bracket.
i might just be a guinea pig and order up some UPR arms to test them to see if they fix it. good thing i got my tax return, damn car is getting expensive. lol.
02-21-2011, 06:35 AM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NJ / MA
Posts: 1,337
No I have never ran the qa1 arms, what I can tell you about the upr a arms though is they use fox body a-arms for the 94-04 and what they do is include a spacer for the balljoint so you don't run out of thread on the balljoint stem. When I purchased my kit it was just listed as a qa1 tubular k member kit, didn't have info on the rest of the parts but when it came in the mail the only peice qa1 was the k member itself, the coil overs and a-arms where in UPR packaging.
finally, someone else with info on QA1! if i get the arms to work, i'll definately let the world know, and OP, if you get the crash bolts to work you too should let the world know, right here on these forums! i guarantee you someone down the line will have the same problem, come here and probably NOT use the search button, but then you will see their post and you can direct them to view your results! lol...
02-21-2011, 08:40 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 2,158
before you go running out and ordering the fox arms dont do it! Ive done it and yes it does suck in your wheels an inch you will have wheel rubbing issues on sway bar, etc you would need to run wheel spacers. I took mine off after speaking to qa1 and they told me their k member pushes the wheels out 3/4 in and their a arms for the 99-04 fixes this problem. I bought the right year a arms and it stopped rubbing. and on mine it was the spring rubbing the tower as well when i turned, you gotta use those crash bolts on the top whole and put the cc plates in the negative position (switching the bearing plates) and then suck them in towards the engine and it will work. the fox arm idea is a pain in the *** and waste of money this way works and is alot cheaper
btw theres nothing fixing the crappy qa1 struts they are noisy always. so are my damn strange struts when used with CC plates
btw theres nothing fixing the crappy qa1 struts they are noisy always. so are my damn strange struts when used with CC plates
02-21-2011, 08:43 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central NJ
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http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...n_page=install
check out the coil over install, MM has a tool to bend those flanges.
check out the coil over install, MM has a tool to bend those flanges.
i see it now on the bilstein install, thats nice too bad they dont sell it without the coil over kit, i could prob make one
Last edited by cisurfer; 02-21-2011 at 08:49 AM.
02-21-2011, 09:24 AM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,787
They do, just have to call. I ordered it for 5 bucks or something like that. Before it got here I traded my qa1 struts and coil overs so I didn't bother bending them since I wouldn't have been able to find out anyway. Mine would hit over bumps, not just when turning.
02-21-2011, 09:48 AM
#16
I have the qa1 k member and upr fox a-arms and I have zero rubbing issues at all. All UPR tubular a-arms are fox body a-arms ( thats what I was told on the phone), when u buy them for 94-04 all they do is give u a spacer for the balljoint because the shaft is longer and without the spacer the nut will run out of thread before it contacts the spindle.
02-21-2011, 02:40 PM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NJ / MA
Posts: 1,337
i'm already at -2.5 degrees camber. crash bolts would probably give me even more camber than i need. UPR arms seem to be the best option for me, and if i have problems with rubbing (i dont have a front swaybar atm) i'll just run wheel spacers.
02-21-2011, 03:13 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 2,158
The crash bolts will give you the clearance you need when you use them in the positive camber orientation which will put you at -.5 degrees and you can use your cc plates to get more if you like
02-22-2011, 05:11 AM
#20
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NJ / MA
Posts: 1,337
so i can run -.5 degrees camber with steeda crash bolts (~30$), keep the a-arms since they do make the wheels look better aligned with the fender (without spacers!) and still have plenty of room in the strut tower? is this at stock ride height? i've noticed my problem gets worse as i lower it, i was at stock ride height before because when i lowered it the problem was just too bad i couldnt deal with the harsh way it drove. not to mension that i the spring hitting made it hard to turn the wheel fully... i'm also lookin for about a 2" drop.