4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Anyone had a head gasket replaced on a 4.6 (99-04) by a Ford dealer? Cost??

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Old 03-22-2011, 11:11 AM
  #11  
SVTeeshirt
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Well then you should have no problem, i can't imagine its too much different from my car, which was just removing a few wires, the throttle cable for ease, cai and some bolts to get it out.
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:28 PM
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cliffyk
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Originally Posted by shelbymustangdan
This is exactly why I post and read these these forums on a daily basis. I honestly did NOT know that coolant passes through the intake manifold on these engines!! This definetly would make more sense.

I do have my trusty Haynes manual as I do for every car we own in the family. I've built my 408 stroker in my 67 fastback, and converted my 67 coupe to 5.0/AOD. This intake issue shouldn't be a problem, just a little slow as it will be my first time, just like anything else.

I'll dig deeper into it this weekend and see what I find.

I truely appreciate everyone's contributions, feedback, and opinions!

Dan
Forget the Haynes manual, here's a post I made just the other day that includes a link to the shop manual RnR procedure for the intake manifold; and some tips.

It's a bit more than SVT described. It is important to torque the manifold bolts in the sequence shown, and to the proper torque (18lbft). If you do not have a 3/8" drive torque wrench get one--18lbft is at the very low end of a 1/2" wrench's range and will not be very accurate.

If you don't have a torque wrench then use a 12" long breaker bar and try to get a feel for what an 18-20 lb push on the end feels like (picj up a 20lb bag of potatoes to get a feel for it)--having the bolts all at equal torque is as important as the proper torque so try to make them all the same.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:57 PM
  #13  
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a few posts back i did state to use the correct torque specs and order.
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Old 03-22-2011, 02:07 PM
  #14  
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Thought I'd reinforce it...
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:01 PM
  #15  
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pun intended?
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:23 PM
  #16  
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Absolutely!
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Old 03-22-2011, 03:34 PM
  #17  
Derf00
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Originally Posted by BraMas
I would take it to a local shop if I where you. There is no reason to pay triple just to take it to the stealership.
Where do you get triple the price?

Here's a few of examples of personal experience:
1) Tires, when the KDWS BFG's were in need of replacing, everyone in town wanted $200 plus per tire...for KDWS!? Dealer, 185 each installed

2) Motor mount for wife's Escape. I checked aftermarket first cos I didn't want to pay what I thougt the dealer would charge. Aftermarket fitment and quality sucked so I went to the dealer. Not only were they less expensiver, but it's an OEM part so it fit, like an OEM part.

3) Oil changes, most places charge between $35 to $40 so does my dealer. That's a semi-syn blend oil change.

The dealer labor rate can be higher or lower than the going rate in his area. In my area it's the same pretty much anywhere....

To the OP, just go to the dealer and have them give you a break down of parts and prices. Done.
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:02 PM
  #18  
shelbymustangdan
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Originally Posted by cliffyk
Forget the Haynes manual, here's a post I made just the other day that includes a link to the shop manual RnR procedure for the intake manifold; and some tips.

It's a bit more than SVT described. It is important to torque the manifold bolts in the sequence shown, and to the proper torque (18lbft). If you do not have a 3/8" drive torque wrench get one--18lbft is at the very low end of a 1/2" wrench's range and will not be very accurate.

If you don't have a torque wrench then use a 12" long breaker bar and try to get a feel for what an 18-20 lb push on the end feels like (picj up a 20lb bag of potatoes to get a feel for it)--having the bolts all at equal torque is as important as the proper torque so try to make them all the same.

Thanks for the link Cliffy!!
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:17 PM
  #19  
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wow derf theres a shop here that does tires for 25 each wheel lol.
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Old 03-22-2011, 04:28 PM
  #20  
BraMas
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Originally Posted by Derf00
Where do you get triple the price?

Here's a few of examples of personal experience:
1) Tires, when the KDWS BFG's were in need of replacing, everyone in town wanted $200 plus per tire...for KDWS!? Dealer, 185 each installed

2) Motor mount for wife's Escape. I checked aftermarket first cos I didn't want to pay what I thougt the dealer would charge. Aftermarket fitment and quality sucked so I went to the dealer. Not only were they less expensiver, but it's an OEM part so it fit, like an OEM part.

3) Oil changes, most places charge between $35 to $40 so does my dealer. That's a semi-syn blend oil change.

The dealer labor rate can be higher or lower than the going rate in his area. In my area it's the same pretty much anywhere....

To the OP, just go to the dealer and have them give you a break down of parts and prices. Done.
OK my bad Stealerships charge alot more everywhere else in the US but by you. Are you seriously gonna argue with something that is a well known fact that the Stealership is more expensive than a local shop 9.99999 times out of 10?
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