OlGeezer

I just got my car back with the suspension mods. Here's what I had done:

• Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs. Now it looks "acceptable" and not like a 4WD vehicle. I was first a little disappointed in that I couldn't get the 1.8" kit, but as far as they go on a convertible (according to the representative) is about 1.5" or so. However, when I first introduced the new suspension to my local speed bumps, I'm glad I didn't go any lower.
• KYB struts and shocks. Already, this feels pretty good, but I'm going to have to do more testing.
  

The parts weren't so bad ($$), but the labor kind of floored me. Sure, I could have shopped around, but I'm not really comfortable in this market yet. Also, I really can't do this at home. I've got a limited size garage with an epoxy floor. I have no room for a lift. The ramps slide around and that would only lift half the car. It's pretty frustrating.

OlGeezer

My ultimate plans are to dump the '99 and get a new Shelby, but until I win the lottery (I hear I first have to buy a ticket), I guess my ultimate goal is to:

1. Avoid getting embarrassed by the new six cylinders that are hitting the street and
2. Having a little fun along the way. I could see myself going to a driving school and then doing a little autox'ing. I might even go to the drag strip once or twice.

It doesn't make a lot of sense (for me) to put a lot of money into it. That's why I'm asking with reference to "bang for the buck". The suspension work made sense because I needed shocks and struts anyway. The lowering kit wasn't necessary, but I hated that huge gap in the wheel well. OTOH, I dumped my 2006 Camry to get rid of the car payments. The suspension work was only two Camry payments and it's been gone for a year and a half, so I'm still way ahead.

boduke0220

Now id do 4.10 Gears, SCT tuner, and a Midpipe.

You can get the 1st two i listed in a bundle pack from American Muscle for like $500 witht he discount code. and the midpipe is only $150 or something around in there. then after that id just save for a blower or shelby

zero2005

labor for the gears though would be a big price tag for him, depending on how he shopped around... i think AAMCO charged me around 400 for the install... but i had mine covered on warranty along with the trans so i told them to replace the gears, but do it with 3.73's (wish i didnt do that now, i want 3.08's lol)

4.10's would help you lay some smack down on the newer 6'ers off the line, they weigh a good bit more if i remember right (coupe vs coupe). but they also have a better suspension stock than we do. you are running a vert though, and they weigh more than a coupe.

alternatively, you could wait a couple model years and get a 2012 GT... they have 412 hp, and a good suspension stock. i just dont like the body style, they're huge.

if your goin autox, its a different story.. someone with a newer sixxer might not have any experience or cash to throw at mods.

also, experience is key. i'd rather spend more time actually driving the car than throwing mods at it. i havent driven my car since just before thanksgiving. sort of like a good rifle, sure you can own a huge .50 cal sniper rifle, but if i can outshoot you with my .22 LR, then whats it matter?

OlGeezer

More or less, what the labor cost to install a s/c?

zero2005

expensive. lol. depends on shop. also depends on type of supercharger and how well of a kit it is. could be 500-1100$. shops charge by the hour, so i'd say a kenne bell would be pretty easy to install since its just a manifold, spark plug, fuel injector/pump swap...

keep in mind, some kits dont include any sort of tune... so if you dont have a tune, thats like another 500-1000$ for a tune... kenne bell includes a safe base "chip" tune.

not tryin to push KB, but its probably the most complete kit there is... i think the ONLY thing it doesnt have is spark plugs lol..

if you want quick fast cheap easy HP... i say NOS. only problem is you gotta find a place to get the juice from, and keep it full. but for 500$, and probably like 100-200$ labor (hell, you could probably do at that in your garage, easy as a throttle body swap if you do a small plate kit)... honestly, i think this would have been my first mod ever if i had the knowledge i do now. if i get a 240sx or a BMW i'm def doing as big a shot as it can handle safely. you just gotta make sure that you have the bottle open (extra $ for the auto bottle opener) before you wanna use it..

mrtstang

OP, if you don't want to spend much, but want your car to really fly then nitrous is really your only feasible option.

Tommy079

Why a midpipe over new mufflers? I'm wanting a nice aggressive sound out of my mustang, with a couple hp as a bonus to the mod. I was thinking about flowmaster super 44's. But I was just going to have my local muffler shop cut out the stock mufflers and weld in the flowmasters?

Is a midpipe better than my idea? If so...why?

zero2005

both are good, but dont expect much in gains. honestly, the piddly diddly HP HP gains yet get wont make that huge of a difference, if at all. the main reason to get an exhaust, is sound.

the only exhausts i would consider for HP gains would be magnaflow or borla. those are the only two that i've heard of that give significant proven HP gains.

now long tube headers do provide significant enough gains for a N/A car IMO to be worthy of getting them simply for that, but also sound good.

now, keep in mind, the stock system if i remember right, is 2.25", and a full catback, is 2.5". thats where most of your flow restriction is.

edit: weld in flows would be a good budget exhaust if you didnt want to mess around with anything else and keep it street legal, but it wont be very loud and the tone wont change a huge amount. honestly i would rather just weld in some SSS terminator's

OlGeezer

Myself, I am only interested in the exhaust mod options which are performance oriented. I am happy with the sound.