uberstang1

Well gonna try to make this as short as possible but its gonna be a long read, I think I have the car fixed as of last nite but looking for opinions this is the second time this happened to me this year. Well first lets explain the first time this similar issue happened, I get the car back on the road in spring for the first time with the new rear and after it warms up when I would let off the gas the car would instantly stall, moving or not moving. I noticed on my wideband as soon as I would let of the gas the A/F ration would go above 20.0 and I could hear the bypass valve for the SC going crazy. Me and steve pull in a lot and after some inspection i noticed the plastic vacum line right where it enters the rubber line for the bypass valve was cracked almost off, so I snipped it and fed the line back into the rubber line and viola the car was fine. Incident number 2 happens last nite, started acting up again and every time i let of the gas the damn car would stall, so i stalled the bastard about 10 times on my way to my garage. I finally make it over and I check the line and it appears to be good, I check the other 3 vacum lines on the car and they all seems good (most are deleted only vacum I have is goign to the bypass valve, fuel pressure reg, hvac controls, and boost gauge.) So I start it up and its doing the same thing wont idle gauge is pegged rich. I puill of the entire plastic vacum line for the bypass valve and it has a split in it where it enters the rubber portion before going into the bypass valve. I'm not sure if the crack was exposed outside of the rubber or it was cracked inside where it shouldn't matter, well anyway I cut more off the plastic off then put it back together and so far no stalls but it does seem to idle a bit richer and run a bit richer when off the gas compared to how it normall runs. Just trying to brainstorm what kind of problem I could be having here if its not the vacum line, the only other thing I can narrow it down to is the fuel pressure reg on the rail because the bypass valve for the blower seems to operate smoothly by hand and doesnt bind up or anything? anyone have any other thoughts. I'm going to replace the entire vacum line this week and see what we have, hopefully it was just the vacum line because driving it with the bypass valve acting goofy can mess up my blower. I'm assuming the issue was the small crack in the hose was enough to not fully open the bypass valve at idle and decel which caused the air to back up to the blower and starve the engine for air which would explain the sudden spike in fuel in the AF and stalling the car, also when this happens and u first try and start it back up its almost like a flooded carb, sprays out some black smoke and u can smell raw fuel.

Karen.t

Hi did you ever get the car fixed from stalling and what was it