zero2005

ok, so motors back together after replacing a valve...
it wont idle, starts, goes like 2 revs then stops... it idled fine prior to me swapping the valve (firing on 7 cylinders). compression on all cylinders = good. if i give it a bit of gas, it will stay alive.

the ONLY thing i changed, which i had sorta before, is i deleted the EGR pressure regulator.
originally what i had done to delete the EGR, was block off the exhaust manifold piping by welding it closed, and for the ERG pressure regulator (the black thing behind the throttle body, on the driver side) i just blocked off the tube going to the EGR vavle. i also made a U shapped hose that crosses over from the HI to the REF side of the ports on the module itself.

this time, i took it off completely, leaving both electrical plugs off (unplugged) i then plugged the vacuum line that runs from the throttlebody to the module...

any ideas? should i reset the idle set screw since i have new cams?

zero2005

just to add info, i did remove the throttle body from the plenum, and the cable/spring assembly for the pedal that bolts to the plenum i took off... not sure if that would affect the idle screw adjustment at all? i think i need to reset it?

it runs fine at higher RPM with a bit of gas. had it up to 3000 rpms and no problems other than being incredibly loud because i dont have all the exhaust bolted up yet. almost like it has a vacuum leak. but i put a bit of pressure with an air hose and a ghetto-rigged intake cap. it didnt show on the gauge, but my manual boost controller which has a small bleed hole in it was leaking (it leaks under pressure, as its a ball/spring type, but not under vacuum) enough that if i built up some pressure it would take a good couple seconds to bleed out the hole, and the pressure actually pushed the end cap off at one point??

could i just need a tune?

cliffyk

What tune are you running? With the stock tune and stage 2 cams a crappy idle would not surprise me. Most '03 stock 5-speed tunes idle at 736 rpm, you will likely have to get that up over 1000, maybe even 1100 to 1200 to get a good idle.

One other issue is that I have no idea how the PCM will react with the EGR blocked/disconnected and not disabled in the tune.

zero2005

i tried it both with the stock tune (chip removed, KAM reset) and a "calibrated" MAF with 42lb injectors..

as well as that same setup, but with a tune from a diablo chip that i got when i first put the turbo on (stock cams/motor).

i'm re-evaluating some options on either chip, handheld, or the delta force software, or going with something like megasquirt. i also need to convert to return-style fuel system with dual pumps since returnless is so dang expensive. actually i think they're about the same system per system, but i hear with return style for higher numbers its more stable, and its easy to just add a 3rd pump via tripple Y-block if necessary.

i might just see if i can get a shop to temporarily burn a tune on my diablo chip so i can get the car back to NJ.

edit, i did a bit of searching, there's a few cobra guys that deleted the EGR solenoid/module, and what i read was that if the EGR system was turned off in the tune, it will not throw a code and it will not effect the system IF you cap off the vacuum lines (i did). if the EGR system is still activated in the tune, it will throw several possible codes. i ran the car using my foot as the "idle control" at 1100ish rpms for 5 minutes (to get all them juicy fluids flowing after sitting for so long) and it was fine and didnt throw a code, with my current diablo tune...