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Pi Swap

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Old 08-15-2011, 11:26 PM
  #1  
Jimmyblaze22
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Default Pi Swap

Hey guys. I currently have a bunch of bolt on mods, like 70mm t/b, 3.73's, accufab intake plenum, Pi intake and cams, k&n cai, slp x-pipes and catback, and an SCT X3/SF3 tuner. I've never had it dyno'd but it's pretty quick. What else would anyone recommend for some more power?? I plan on getting the CNC ported Pi heads from livernois in a couple months. And I'm gonna throw a pair of Comp Cams stage II extreme energy cams on there. Is this head swap very hard??? I did the intake and cams myself in the parking lot of my apt complex. Should I buy a cheap engine hoist and pull the engine? How hard is it to pull an engine? Seems like a big job to me, or is it pretty straightforward with the hoist. I'd like to keep the motor in the car but is it possible? I'm also throwing some BBK shorty ceramic headers on cuz my stock one are all rusty and look like ****. Some input would be cool. By the way, I've got 100k on the car now, is a head swap worth it? Would the engine last longer because of the new heads?
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:00 AM
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1998Slow 'Stang
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Don't know about your cam question, but rumor has it that you can put shorties on with the engine in. In the Haynes repair manual it says it is very challenging to do heads with the engine in the car.

Pulling an engine, in my opinion, is a piece of cake. Just triple check you have EVERYTHING that LOOKS like it will be in the way, out of the way. When you start pulling with a hoist things bend easy (ask me how I know lol) And, if you do go this route with the hoist, DONT buy a really cheap one, it can cause the loss of limb, or worse a body panel on the car.

I've been kicking around the idea of a PI head swap myself, (especially with my completely horrible valve seals/guides) but I don't really want to have to put premium gas in my car (no gain without the car tuned for it), because this swap causes a substantial bump in compression and you pretty much have to run Premium. I'm not sure but I don't think you have enough PTV clearance if you run an NPI block with PI heads and comp stage II cams.

I'd recommend just finding a used longblock from a '99-'04 with lower miles that I could drop in. After all, its a direct drop in replacement.

If I'm wrong on anything someone will correct me, but that just my .02
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:00 PM
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Jimmyblaze22
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Don't really wanna find a block. But Def wanna get the cnc ported Pi heads from Livernois. Could you give me a little info on why it would be so hard to do a head swap with the engine in, I did my cams, and It looked like I was half way there to getting the heads off from where I was at. And second, do I disconnect the tranny from the engine if I end up pulling it?? Don't I just remove the two motor mount bolts on the K-member and does that free up the engine?? or is it connected in more places?(other than all the necessary cables, hoses, ect....) Just pull it out and connect it to a engine stand and do my work?? The transmission part has me confused. I've removed the tranny myself b4, I pulled it for a clutch job. I got everything apart and then could not for the life of me get the pilot bearing out!!!! So I had it towed to a shop and they finished the job. but anyway, input appreciated!!
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Old 08-17-2011, 12:11 AM
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1998Slow 'Stang
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Well, I can see you're really confused about this. I recommend the search button for this sort of thing, there are PI swap threads all the time, however, I feel nice so here is a great link to an amazing PI Swap write up. That IN ADDITION to a Haynes manual from your FLAPS* (Sorry for stealing your acronym CliffyK). This will fill in the blanks dealing with torque spec/sequence that the guide has broken links to.

I don't think you should have to pull the engine for this, it just doesn't seem necessary. Although, pulling your engine would be easier than an auto, as you don't have trans cooler lines running on the block (PITA to disconnect in the engine bay in my opinion). However, yes the undo the motor mount bolts and the engine is more or less free from the car........unless you like your PS and AC. You have to undo the 4 (i think) bolts on the pump and the compressor on opposite sides, then take shifter off and drain the fluid from the drain plug on the side. Although, not necessary you could go that route.

As for your Shorty Headers, I could only image that's a million times easier with the engine out of the car, but I've never done those so I don't actually know. Perhaps someone could chime in on that, and whether or not exhaust bolts/studs are reusable.

Zak
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:51 PM
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Jimmyblaze22
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Thanks for the help. And that PI write up is great. I'll def use it as a reference when I do the swap.
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:17 PM
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sn95_331_GT_ yellow
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you could always take a look through my build thread too same thing you want to do

and the PTV issue isnt dependent on NPI/PI/4V pistons, its a radial issue and will in the SAME PLACE on all three of the combo's listed...
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:07 PM
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1998Slow 'Stang
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Oh yeah, and his is good too! Sorry sn95_331_GT_yellow, completely forgot about your thread though I've been following it religiously. Love the look of the Deep Violet GTS by the way.
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:39 PM
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MrTDR04
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You can do the PI swap in the car but you will still have to undo the motor mounts and lift up each side to pull each head out and to put the new ones in. Im also almost sure that you will have to undo your break booster and roll it to the side to keep it out of the way. Sorry it was a really long time ago that I did a head swap on that GEN I know you would have to on the 99-04s. Hope this helps a little.
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:54 PM
  #9  
8111870a
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I did my PI swap with engine in car.
Didnt touch motor mounts, brake booster or anything non-head related.
Shorty headers are no problem when pulling heads. Get a flexible oil dipstick to save the hassle of reinstalling stock tube.
Good luck
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:10 PM
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1998Slow 'Stang
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Yeah, what the guy above me said. Do NOT touch the motor mounts. Very easy to pull the heads off. The only thing holding them in once you start pulling them off should be a few dowel pin looking things that require you to pull straight out and up.
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