4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

FIRST TIME AT THE TRACK

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Old 09-03-2011, 12:27 PM
  #11  
jrp1588
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Oh yeah, the MGW is definitely high up on the mod list. I actually have missed third a handful of times when I was being a bit more spirited than usual.
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:22 PM
  #12  
1998Slow 'Stang
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I'd like to cast another vote for the MGW. I too am on about month 2 of driving manual trans, and with the MGW it's very easy to find the gears. In fact, I think I missed 5 and went to 3rd the first day I had the car (MGW came on it), scared me pretty bad lol. But, if you can afford it, definitely spring for the MGW.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:30 PM
  #13  
crf150rracing18
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Thanks for all the advice on mods,and I think im going to go with the mgw short throw seems alot of you recommend it lol.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:35 PM
  #14  
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Im thinking about lowing it too it sits way to high in the front and back whats the best way to go about lowering it.I want to lower but also dont want to spend awhole alot.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:48 PM
  #15  
1998Slow 'Stang
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Originally Posted by crf150rracing18
Im thinking about lowing it too it sits way to high in the front and back whats the best way to go about lowering it.I want to lower but also dont want to spend awhole alot.
I've not heard of a "cheap" way to lower these cars. It's said that when you lower it you will need to replace the stock shocks and struts in the quite near future. I for one am waiting to lower it until I can afford to spend money on good quality shocks and struts, as well as a set of H&R Super Sports. From all the pictures I have seen, they are the ones to go with.
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:33 PM
  #16  
mrtstang
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Originally Posted by crf150rracing18
Im thinking about lowing it too it sits way to high in the front and back whats the best way to go about lowering it.I want to lower but also dont want to spend awhole alot.
If you want to lower as much as possible, but don't want to replace other things, you might want to consider something like the Eibach Pro Kit. Anything below a 1.5" drop, and you may or may not need things like c&c plates, shocks/struts, etc...There are people who run springs that are even lower like Eibach Sportlines, H&R Super Sports, etc...all with stock components as well, but it's not going to be recommended by most.
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:42 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by zero2005
ah. yea, i hear ya on that. just be glad we have cable's and not hydraulics... i hate the feel of a hydraulic clutch. there's not as much, if any feedback.

i switch between combat boots and sneakers, so i know how that feels. even driven without shoes and wow is that terrible lol. cant wait to see how my new spec 2+ feels with cams tho, bet its gunna be fun trying to drive that around.

i still recommend a short throw, makes getting it into gear and keeping in there much much easier, almost mindless. no worries about missing gears = more concentration for... other things..
i went all out and bought myself a pair of Piloti's off of ebay lol i LOVE them for driving...

SPEC 2+ = sexxxxxxxxx i love mine, i got the heap started FINALLY too, and im sooo amped right now lol
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Old 09-03-2011, 10:17 PM
  #18  
TRUEBLUE3934
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It will set you back around $800, but I HIGHLY recommend a swap of rear gears to at least 3.73's, but 3.90 or 4.10 will give you the best performance. The $800 would include the gears, tuner, and install. It is not cheap, but it is the best bang for the buck on performance improvement.
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Old 09-03-2011, 11:21 PM
  #19  
jrp1588
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You could also break it up a bit. Buy the tuner first, which will give nice gains by itself. Save up some more cash for gears and install kit, that'll run about $250. May want to get a rebuild kit for the posi unit as well, I forget how much those are. Install will run around $300.
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:34 AM
  #20  
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Not bad at all, my first trip to the track yielded a 15.7 @ 84mph. lol NPI/2.73's
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