cliffyk

The FWA should have come with a bushing to keep the cable ferrule centered in the bore of the adjuster:



How much free-play does the pedal have--you should be able to depress it 1" to 1-1/2" before you feel the TOB start to act on the clutch spring--if not then the cable is too tight and the clutch may be not clamping up fully.

There should be no "burnt" smell associated with a new clutch, other than perhaps very briefly just after installation--I.e. the first 5 to 10 starts. After that in normal driving there should be no such smell...

bronxbomerss2

Yeah never got any bushing great bbk sucks I literally wasted 120 bucks on crap!! Ok ill go buy a new one lol anyways ill put the car back up and see were the TOB is at and ill adjust from there it should be 1/4-1/8" away from the fingers I believe but I need that new FWA before I damage the cable but I do have I'd say about close to an inch from what I feel before I feel any pressure on the pedal but thanks cliffyk I appreciate the feedback

cliffyk

I don't know where that 1/8" to 1/4" distance from the TOB to the spring fingers thing came from, maybe it was a spec for the older Mustangs but there's no such spec in the new-edge shop manuals.

Just set the free-play in the pedal to 1" to 1-1/2" (as the OEM semi-automatic adjuster does) and the TOB spacing will take care of itself. Press on the pedal with your hand, it should depress 1" to 1-1/2" before you feel the TOB contact the spring.

Also I would not buy a new FWA, just fabricate a bushing/spacer--go to the hardware store and find some tubing that is close to the correct size, then slit it if needed and form it to fill the gap--or, just wrap some electrical tape around the clutch cable ferrule 'til in fits snugly in the FWA.

There's a hundred ways to snug that fit up...

bronxbomerss2

I read it should be that way from a couple other forums and from a sponsor I think American powertrain I'm not 100% certain but his logo had a eagle or some kind of bird on it so I took that as a legitimate comment but u have yet to steer me wrong cliffyk !

cliffyk

I have seen it said may times, however why do all those gymnastics when all you have to do is properly set the pedal free-play?

bronxbomerss2

Well they said its not a true feel for where the actual TOB is u need to actually look at it but I have yet to see u give me bad advice so ill do what your suggesting thanks for all the help cliffyk clearly your one of the best contributors on this site or any site for that matter and honestly without yours nd others input I would be lost and wouldn't even come close to attempting all the Mods I've done to my car so thank you so very much for your time and help!

cliffyk

I just recently measured a stock clutch release lever and found it provides about a 3.0:1 mechanical advantage and found the the pedal lever and quadrant add another 3.0:1 or so, for a total advantage of 9.0:1.

So 1" of pedal travel = 1/9th inch (0.111") or so of TOB travel, a bit less than 1/8". 1-1/2" pedal travel = 1.5/9.0 = 0.167" or about 11/64" TOB travel. I run mine at the high end, 1-1/2" free-play.

So there you are, with much more precision than crawling around on your back trying to peek into a slot on the tranny and guess how far the TOB is from the clutch fingers...

bronxbomerss2

DANGIT JUST WHEN I THOUGHT I WAS IN THE CLEAR!! okay cliffyk the code came back but it isn't nearly as bad as it was before it isn't missing like it was its just minor this time but i am still getting code P1131 and now code P0171 (system to lean bank 1) so what should be my next plan off attack? i rele don't wanna take this in to the dealership, my exhaust setup shouldn't have anyhting to do with this could it? BBK shorty headers, MAC o/r H, Magnapacks, damn just when i thought it was over so the MAF is new, and i know for sure its coming from the passengers side with the P0171 code so what should i try next? the only vacuum leaks i checked for was the fuel injectors by spraying carb cleaner in them

cliffyk

Exhaust leak-if there is ANY leak before or near the front O2 sensor you will get a lean code--the other thing to do is check the AFR in that bank with a wideband O2 system to see if it is really lean.

Vacuum leaks (other than at the injectors) would affect both banks.

bronxbomerss2

Ok ill check once the car cools down but I don't get why I drove it yesterday and it was fine no codes at all and today it ran fine but when I checked with my obd I got those two codes so I don't have a wideband 02 sensor so I can't check that I assume its reading correctly since its a brand new sensor but what if any lines should I check like the pvc valve and where is it on the car and I do have a pp 70mm tb and plenum with a intake manifold spacer Idk if this would do anything and I've had all my parts on here for a little more than 1k miles with no issues so I guess its back to the drawing board :/