MIL CONNECTORS
11-22-2011, 06:51 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: tx
Posts: 63
MIL CONNECTORS
Threw a CEL today, almost positive its an o2 sensor, was reading about the MIL connectors on American Muscle and the ad said they were only for the rear 02 sensors, will they work on the front o2 sensors as well?? - or should I just bite the bullet and replace the bad o2 sensor...sucks because you get 2 MIL connectors for darn near the price of 1 02 sensor...
11-22-2011, 07:04 PM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NJ / MA
Posts: 1,337
...you dont want to use them on the front o2 sensors, the front o2's are used to control the motor during normal driving for fuel trims. you start messing with the front o2's and your gunna be burning too much or too little gas, causing terrible gas milage and/or damage to the motor.
first off, is it the front or rear o2 sensors throwing the code? take it to autozone or adv auto (or a buddy with a code scanner), all 3 of which do it for free(well, cept the buddy, prolly have to buy him some beer) and find out what its up to. replace the o2 sensor if its the front.
if you want to "eliminate" the rear o2's, mil elims are 1 option. the other option is a tuner, with the added benefit of being able to do so much more and open up your options. sure its an extra expense, but its worth it and a better option IMO.
if your good with a soldering iron, you can "make" your own mil elims for a fraction of the price (like 15$ total). cliffyk has a webpage bout it.
first off, is it the front or rear o2 sensors throwing the code? take it to autozone or adv auto (or a buddy with a code scanner), all 3 of which do it for free(well, cept the buddy, prolly have to buy him some beer) and find out what its up to. replace the o2 sensor if its the front.
if you want to "eliminate" the rear o2's, mil elims are 1 option. the other option is a tuner, with the added benefit of being able to do so much more and open up your options. sure its an extra expense, but its worth it and a better option IMO.
if your good with a soldering iron, you can "make" your own mil elims for a fraction of the price (like 15$ total). cliffyk has a webpage bout it.
11-22-2011, 07:12 PM
#4
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: tx
Posts: 63
...you dont want to use them on the front o2 sensors, the front o2's are used to control the motor during normal driving for fuel trims. you start messing with the front o2's and your gunna be burning too much or too little gas, causing terrible gas milage and/or damage to the motor.
first off, is it the front or rear o2 sensors throwing the code? take it to autozone or adv auto (or a buddy with a code scanner), all 3 of which do it for free(well, cept the buddy, prolly have to buy him some beer) and find out what its up to. replace the o2 sensor if its the front.
if you want to "eliminate" the rear o2's, mil elims are 1 option. the other option is a tuner, with the added benefit of being able to do so much more and open up your options. sure its an extra expense, but its worth it and a better option IMO.
if your good with a soldering iron, you can "make" your own mil elims for a fraction of the price (like 15$ total). cliffyk has a webpage bout it.
first off, is it the front or rear o2 sensors throwing the code? take it to autozone or adv auto (or a buddy with a code scanner), all 3 of which do it for free(well, cept the buddy, prolly have to buy him some beer) and find out what its up to. replace the o2 sensor if its the front.
if you want to "eliminate" the rear o2's, mil elims are 1 option. the other option is a tuner, with the added benefit of being able to do so much more and open up your options. sure its an extra expense, but its worth it and a better option IMO.
if your good with a soldering iron, you can "make" your own mil elims for a fraction of the price (like 15$ total). cliffyk has a webpage bout it.
11-22-2011, 07:18 PM
#5
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
First thing to do is get the code(s) read and make note of them--the codes, not whatever whoever reads the codes tells you they mean. Look the codes up here to see possible causes and diagnostic tips. Also, just because the description mentions an O2 sensor does not automatically mean a sensor is bad--in fact most O2 sensor related trouble codes are the result of a good sensor reporting some other problem.
MIL Eliminators (read more about them here) are only used on the rear sensors to trick the PCM into believing that the catalytic converters are installed and working. Note also that in order for MIL Eliminators to work the rear O2 sensors must be installed in the exhaust pipe and working--they eliminate the MIL's (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) lighting up when cats are bad or not there, they do not eliminate the need for installed and working rear O2 sensors.
The front sensors are essential to engine control and must be installed, properly wired, and functional.
MIL Eliminators (read more about them here) are only used on the rear sensors to trick the PCM into believing that the catalytic converters are installed and working. Note also that in order for MIL Eliminators to work the rear O2 sensors must be installed in the exhaust pipe and working--they eliminate the MIL's (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) lighting up when cats are bad or not there, they do not eliminate the need for installed and working rear O2 sensors.
The front sensors are essential to engine control and must be installed, properly wired, and functional.
11-22-2011, 07:50 PM
#6
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: tx
Posts: 63
First thing to do is get the code(s) read and make note of them--the codes, not whatever whoever reads the codes tells you they mean. Look the codes up here to see possible causes and diagnostic tips. Also, just because the description mentions an O2 sensor does not automatically mean a sensor is bad--in fact most O2 sensor related trouble codes are the result of a good sensor reporting some other problem.
MIL Eliminators (read more about them here) are only used on the rear sensors to trick the PCM into believing that the catalytic converters are installed and working. Note also that in order for MIL Eliminators to work the rear O2 sensors must be installed in the exhaust pipe and working--they eliminate the MIL's (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) lighting up when cats are bad or not there, they do not eliminate the need for installed and working rear O2 sensors.
The front sensors are essential to engine control and must be installed, properly wired, and functional.
MIL Eliminators (read more about them here) are only used on the rear sensors to trick the PCM into believing that the catalytic converters are installed and working. Note also that in order for MIL Eliminators to work the rear O2 sensors must be installed in the exhaust pipe and working--they eliminate the MIL's (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) lighting up when cats are bad or not there, they do not eliminate the need for installed and working rear O2 sensors.
The front sensors are essential to engine control and must be installed, properly wired, and functional.
11-23-2011, 10:35 AM
#7
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: tx
Posts: 63
First thing to do is get the code(s) read and make note of them--the codes, not whatever whoever reads the codes tells you they mean. Look the codes up here to see possible causes and diagnostic tips. Also, just because the description mentions an O2 sensor does not automatically mean a sensor is bad--in fact most O2 sensor related trouble codes are the result of a good sensor reporting some other problem.
MIL Eliminators (read more about them here) are only used on the rear sensors to trick the PCM into believing that the catalytic converters are installed and working. Note also that in order for MIL Eliminators to work the rear O2 sensors must be installed in the exhaust pipe and working--they eliminate the MIL's (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) lighting up when cats are bad or not there, they do not eliminate the need for installed and working rear O2 sensors.
The front sensors are essential to engine control and must be installed, properly wired, and functional.
MIL Eliminators (read more about them here) are only used on the rear sensors to trick the PCM into believing that the catalytic converters are installed and working. Note also that in order for MIL Eliminators to work the rear O2 sensors must be installed in the exhaust pipe and working--they eliminate the MIL's (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) lighting up when cats are bad or not there, they do not eliminate the need for installed and working rear O2 sensors.
The front sensors are essential to engine control and must be installed, properly wired, and functional.
Could my CAI be causing it. Where should I look first?
11-23-2011, 10:51 AM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NJ / MA
Posts: 1,337
is it the same code that was causing the light before?
what do you mean the code came on right after you "lugged" the motor? did you stall it or did the RPM's just get really low or?
have you tried resetting the computer (disconnect battery, let car sit for about 10 minutes, then reconnect) after you do so you should drive around for 10-15 minutes to get the engine up to temp. then see if the same code or another code pops up.
what do you mean the code came on right after you "lugged" the motor? did you stall it or did the RPM's just get really low or?
have you tried resetting the computer (disconnect battery, let car sit for about 10 minutes, then reconnect) after you do so you should drive around for 10-15 minutes to get the engine up to temp. then see if the same code or another code pops up.
11-23-2011, 11:20 AM
#10
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: tx
Posts: 63
is it the same code that was causing the light before?
what do you mean the code came on right after you "lugged" the motor? did you stall it or did the RPM's just get really low or?
have you tried resetting the computer (disconnect battery, let car sit for about 10 minutes, then reconnect) after you do so you should drive around for 10-15 minutes to get the engine up to temp. then see if the same code or another code pops up.
what do you mean the code came on right after you "lugged" the motor? did you stall it or did the RPM's just get really low or?
have you tried resetting the computer (disconnect battery, let car sit for about 10 minutes, then reconnect) after you do so you should drive around for 10-15 minutes to get the engine up to temp. then see if the same code or another code pops up.
I took it a local mechanic because I though I had an exhaust leak (passenger side) at the collector but they swore up and down there is no leak and the sound I am hearing is coming from my CAI. Seems suspicious that I am getting a code from the sensor right where I suspect exhaust leak...I reset computer before and code went away, came back yesterday a block afte I almost stalled...
Last edited by Autohaulers INC; 11-23-2011 at 11:22 AM.