Fearing The Gear
#12
I thought my 4.10s were awsom with my prochager till I got to the track and realized theres no way its gonna hook without a big sidewall tire.
#13
I installed 3.73s just after getting the car 5 years ago, before any other mods and back when it was stock except for an opened up exhaust and dyno'd at 220rwHP.
However if had it to do over again, now that the engine has been awakened a bit, I would have gone with 3.55s. Here in the flat-lands of Florida 1st gear in the 3650 is just too damned low making it almost worthless. I can launch in second and pull up to 60mph faster than I can launching in 1st--mostly because the damned limestone aggregate roads down here are slick as snot, and it (1st) goes by so fast that I bounce off the rev-limiter half the time.
What I really want is that 2.87:1 1st gear that the TKO-600 TCET-5008 has. When the tranny goes I'll see if I can get that gear in a 3650, or get a T-56--though I really don't want a 6-speed.
Knowing what I do now if I were running f/i at 350-400rwHP I'd probably stick with the 3.27s for a street car...
However if had it to do over again, now that the engine has been awakened a bit, I would have gone with 3.55s. Here in the flat-lands of Florida 1st gear in the 3650 is just too damned low making it almost worthless. I can launch in second and pull up to 60mph faster than I can launching in 1st--mostly because the damned limestone aggregate roads down here are slick as snot, and it (1st) goes by so fast that I bounce off the rev-limiter half the time.
What I really want is that 2.87:1 1st gear that the TKO-600 TCET-5008 has. When the tranny goes I'll see if I can get that gear in a 3650, or get a T-56--though I really don't want a 6-speed.
Knowing what I do now if I were running f/i at 350-400rwHP I'd probably stick with the 3.27s for a street car...
#14
I have 4.10s in my mustang, very happy I went with them and not the 3.73s. Engine-wise, it's mostly stock. When driving normally, I get ~20mpg. My engine revs at 2500rpm at 75mph.
If you're going to have that long of a commute, have you ever considered buying a car like a civic or something along those lines? You'll end up paying for the car in gas money you'd be saving from using your mustang...
If you're going to have that long of a commute, have you ever considered buying a car like a civic or something along those lines? You'll end up paying for the car in gas money you'd be saving from using your mustang...
#15
Assuming the Mustang gets 20mpg and a Civic 35mpg, and that the OP drive 60 miles 220 days a year (average workdays/year) he'd save $919 per year in fuel costs¹, probably just about what the insurance and maintenance on the 2nd car would cost--this would all be in addition to the Mustang's costs unless heaven forbid he got rid of it...
That's why I drive mine, and run 93 octane fuel (a whopping $200 a year more at 20k miles per year)...
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¹ - Assume $3.25/gal for 87 octane
That's why I drive mine, and run 93 octane fuel (a whopping $200 a year more at 20k miles per year)...
---------------------------------------------
¹ - Assume $3.25/gal for 87 octane
- ((60 miles * 220 days / 20 mpg) * $3.25) = $2145.00 per year
- ((60 miles * 220 days / 35 mpg) * $3.25) = $1225.71 per year
#16
I have 4.10s in my mustang, very happy I went with them and not the 3.73s. Engine-wise, it's mostly stock. When driving normally, I get ~20mpg. My engine revs at 2500rpm at 75mph.
If you're going to have that long of a commute, have you ever considered buying a car like a civic or something along those lines? You'll end up paying for the car in gas money you'd be saving from using your mustang...
If you're going to have that long of a commute, have you ever considered buying a car like a civic or something along those lines? You'll end up paying for the car in gas money you'd be saving from using your mustang...
#18
the fuel difference between 4.10's and 3.73's is minimal, its not even really a valid argument IMO. if your really worried about it, back off on the speed while cruising.
get the gear you want for your power goals, if you plan on staying n/a and not doing a whole ton of mods like cams/longtubes/etc, i'd say 4.10 to get the most "bang for your buck" if you plan on anything radical, i'd say 3.73, or if you want over 400 rwhp, stick with 3.27's, altho even then every setup is different. running 3.73's, and at 8psi, it was too much gear for a turbo setup. the car would break loose in 4th gear even (albeit, yes, on crappy sumitomos) and your only in boost for about a second before shifting (mainly a problem on sticks, autos dont have the psi drop with a shift) and you have to start all over again. longer gear means in boost (and thus better powerband) longer.
get the gear you want for your power goals, if you plan on staying n/a and not doing a whole ton of mods like cams/longtubes/etc, i'd say 4.10 to get the most "bang for your buck" if you plan on anything radical, i'd say 3.73, or if you want over 400 rwhp, stick with 3.27's, altho even then every setup is different. running 3.73's, and at 8psi, it was too much gear for a turbo setup. the car would break loose in 4th gear even (albeit, yes, on crappy sumitomos) and your only in boost for about a second before shifting (mainly a problem on sticks, autos dont have the psi drop with a shift) and you have to start all over again. longer gear means in boost (and thus better powerband) longer.
#19
Assuming the Mustang gets 20mpg and a Civic 35mpg, and that the OP drive 60 miles 220 days a year (average workdays/year) he'd save $919 per year in fuel costs¹, probably just about what the insurance and maintenance on the 2nd car would cost--this would all be in addition to the Mustang's costs unless heaven forbid he got rid of it...
That's why I drive mine, and run 93 octane fuel (a whopping $200 a year more at 20k miles per year)...
---------------------------------------------
¹ - Assume $3.25/gal for 87 octane
That's why I drive mine, and run 93 octane fuel (a whopping $200 a year more at 20k miles per year)...
---------------------------------------------
¹ - Assume $3.25/gal for 87 octane
- ((60 miles * 220 days / 20 mpg) * $3.25) = $2145.00 per year
- ((60 miles * 220 days / 35 mpg) * $3.25) = $1225.71 per year
#20
I lost a bit less than 1/2mpg average when I went to 3.73s, again virtually no loss on the highway...