Car Dying At Idle - Completely Clueless
02-17-2012, 07:14 AM
#11
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Actually checked that, as well. Put a smoke machine on it and had no luck. The more we talk, the more it is looking like the IAC. I'd much rather that than something else, though. Was looking at parts online and it's only about $90, and that's IF I have to change it as opposed to cleaning it.
You should be able to get one at any FLAPS for $90 or less...
02-21-2012, 02:06 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 31
Update: I just went in and cleaned the IAC and it is still dying. It didn't look like there is anything wrong with it. Is there a way to tell if it is broken by looking at it or is it one of those things you can't physically see?
02-21-2012, 04:51 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 31
. I am still running stock on that sadly. Was going to be my next mod until this happened. Can't upgrade my car when I know something is wrong with it.
02-21-2012, 04:55 PM
#15
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
- With the engine warm and idling disconnect the IAC electrical connector, the engine rpm should drop significantly or even stall--if it doesn't the IAC is bad buy a new one;
- You can check the IAC with a multi-meter, unplug the electrical connector and measure the resistance between the two terminals, it should be 6Ω to 13Ω--if it isn't the IAC is bad, buy a new one;
- Next check the resistance between each terminal and the IAC body, in both cases it should be better than 10kΩ--if it is less thee IAC is bad, buy a new one;
You can also check the voltage between the red wire at the IAC (connector plugged in, key on engine off (KOEO) and ground (the IAC body will work), it should be 12.0V or more--if not you have a wiring problem.
It cannot be a fuse issue as the IAC, all the injectors, the MAF, and two PCM reference voltages are all supplied by the same fuse--I.e. the engine would not run if that fuse were blown...
02-22-2012, 09:14 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 31
- With the engine warm and idling disconnect the IAC electrical connector, the engine rpm should drop significantly or even stall--if it doesn't the IAC is bad buy a new one;
- You can check the IAC with a multi-meter, unplug the electrical connector and measure the resistance between the two terminals, it should be 6Ω to 13Ω--if it isn't the IAC is bad, buy a new one;
- Next check the resistance between each terminal and the IAC body, in both cases it should be better than 10kΩ--if it is less thee IAC is bad, buy a new one;
You can also check the voltage between the red wire at the IAC (connector plugged in, key on engine off (KOEO) and ground (the IAC body will work), it should be 12.0V or more--if not you have a wiring problem.
It cannot be a fuse issue as the IAC, all the injectors, the MAF, and two PCM reference voltages are all supplied by the same fuse--I.e. the engine would not run if that fuse were blown...
I will update you guys with what was wrong, just in case it may happen to you.
03-05-2012, 07:12 AM
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 31
It turns out that there was actually a bad ground within the Fuel Relay Module, which was only a $10 fix. The ground was causing one of my headlights to go out when the relay module quit working correctly. Goes to show that sometimes its something completely simple causing so many problems.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
92 5.0stang
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
4
08-13-2015 06:46 AM
Milan Dragway
Members Rides and Car Show Section
0
08-12-2015 03:43 PM
