Dealing with the rear main seal on a rebuild
03-12-2012, 05:42 PM
#1
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
Dealing with the rear main seal on a rebuild
It's almost time to assemble my teksid block!
I bought it with the forged crank already installed - but I need to take it apart to get the rotating assembly balanced, and I'm going to have the block honed and tanked while I've got stuff at the machine shop.
It still has the rear main seal and plate installed and I need to take that off. I've never actually done that before and the Ford service manual says I need special tools. I'd like to avoid that if possible.
I'll very likely be ordering a new rear main seal anyway just because I don't want to touch it again. What's the backyard mechanic method of removing that seal and plate? And reinstallation?
I bought it with the forged crank already installed - but I need to take it apart to get the rotating assembly balanced, and I'm going to have the block honed and tanked while I've got stuff at the machine shop.
It still has the rear main seal and plate installed and I need to take that off. I've never actually done that before and the Ford service manual says I need special tools. I'd like to avoid that if possible.
I'll very likely be ordering a new rear main seal anyway just because I don't want to touch it again. What's the backyard mechanic method of removing that seal and plate? And reinstallation?
03-13-2012, 10:02 AM
#2
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
You only need the special tools if you do not remove the seal plate, if you do remove the plate just tap the old seal out and new one back in.
However I just use one of these:
Modified (ground and stoned) to relieve and radius the sharp edges:
And then used carefully with a piece of 0.002" shim stock between the tool and the shaft sealing surface.
To replace the seal just use a hardwood block and tap it into place evenly--then do the same with the oil slinger...
However I just use one of these:
Modified (ground and stoned) to relieve and radius the sharp edges:
And then used carefully with a piece of 0.002" shim stock between the tool and the shaft sealing surface.
To replace the seal just use a hardwood block and tap it into place evenly--then do the same with the oil slinger...
03-13-2012, 11:17 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
You only need the special tools if you do not remove the seal plate, if you do remove the plate just tap the old seal out and new one back in.
However I just use one of these:
Modified (ground and stoned) to relieve and radius the sharp edges:
And then used carefully with a piece of 0.002" shim stock between the tool and the shaft sealing surface.
To replace the seal just use a hardwood block and tap it into place evenly--then do the same with the oil slinger...
However I just use one of these:
Modified (ground and stoned) to relieve and radius the sharp edges:
And then used carefully with a piece of 0.002" shim stock between the tool and the shaft sealing surface.
To replace the seal just use a hardwood block and tap it into place evenly--then do the same with the oil slinger...
The service manual says use the special tool to remove the seal and slinger from the plate before removing the plate - so I was just left wondering if it was something strange and I'd damage my crank or something by removing it.
So why not just remove the plate when replacing a rear main seal? Seems easier to me!
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46, 46l, ford, installation, instructions, main, mustang, oil, plate, rear, rebuild, replacement, seal, seals, slinger
