4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

How do you guys feel about this suspension setup.

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Old 04-26-2012, 04:19 PM
  #21  
oxfordgt
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Baselines lowers arn't any better. Look at the link I posted for lowers, those are the best you can use.

If you believe everything those road racers tell you about drag racing you're in trouble.

I can take a crap in a paper bag and sell it to you to put on the right side of your trunk. It will help with weight transfer and make your car hook like crazy. Would you believe me?
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:34 PM
  #22  
uberstang1
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Originally Posted by disposablehero27
alright. What they are telling me is this... To have a good launching car that can be driven well on the street as well is as follows. Tokico D spec shocks with H&R sport springs NON COIL OVERS slightly stiffer than stock, coil overs in the front 200lbs,tokico struts, FLSFC, adj MM LCA's, rear sway bar, TQ arm kit, Panhard kit, Roll bar.
T
"This will launch like a son of a bitch, and still be able to run on the road, all you would have to do is change the springs to road race." is exactly what he said. This was the best drag setup from his launch box kit mixed with the front end parts. You disagree 100% here? Saying this is an awful setup?

I know the panhard/tq arm setup is in exchange for the pro launch. Just relaying the conversation as I called to discuss the EXACT setup.

Whats up with the low quality LCA's over the baseline's?

Sorry to keep hounding you man, i'm really neck deep in this, and need all the knowledge I can get. My first build as you know.
The advice to run H and R sport springs is bad advice, stock springs cut to your length you want would be way more beneficial that any kind of aftermarket lowering spring. I would suggest calling Dave at Team Z or someone over at baseline for advice on a suspension setup for street/strip, I agree with OX that taking advice for a street/strip setup from a company focused on autocross isn't ideal. Them telling you to run a torque arm panhard bar is simply to make them money.

Last edited by uberstang1; 04-26-2012 at 04:52 PM.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:02 PM
  #23  
disposablehero27
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ok, thanks. I'll give them a shout.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:02 PM
  #24  
disposablehero27
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how rough will your setup be in the curves everyday? I live in Virginia where there aren't many straight roads unless your on the strip. I don't want drive 35mph in it everywhere other than the strip. I'm so torn because I have two very experienced people telling me to go to two opposite extremes. How much different is 175 to 200 in the front?

I will drop the MM control Arms and go with what you listed here. You saying I should drop the rear shocks and springs and go coil overs? correct ox

Last edited by disposablehero27; 04-26-2012 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:15 PM
  #25  
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I had pretty much the exact same setup as I listed above. My buddy in his 04 cobra with 650rwhp couldn't keep up with me at the track or on the way there and back. The fastest I went in a corner was 65mph in a soft 90* turn.

I also had sex in the back seat and the car never rocked back and forth.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:30 PM
  #26  
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hahahaha, very nice.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:21 PM
  #27  
96meangreengt
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Originally Posted by oxfordgt
Sounds like adding around 100lbs to your car. If you want a good street/strip set up for half of what your gonna pay for the MM junk let me know, I'll point you in the right direction.
I wouldn't call MM stuff exactly junk I have their road and track pakage and its top quilty stuff but I do agree that if you trying to save weight then MM is not the way to go because thier stuff is made very heavyduty and not much lighter than stock.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:28 PM
  #28  
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well i'm not concerned with weight what so ever really. Again its not going to be dedicated drag. So i'm going to go with the full maximum grip package with non coil overs in the back. This will be a DD first, drag second, so i'm just going to buy the whole damn thing, take that dudes word for it, and if its total **** on the drag strip, call me a road racer, and jazzer and I will become the AX guys I guess. I don't want to weld up, lock up my rear end and not be able to enjoy driving it. Wish me luck. Call me stupid, theres only one way to find out if what they are saying is true. I will be the test rat.

here is what i purchased with a few modifcations, instead of coil overs, went shocks and springs near stock stiffness. Tokico D spec struts, shocks. and the Extreme duty control amrs


http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1038
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:17 AM
  #29  
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My cars fine on the road, with the slicks and skinnys it goes around corners just fine.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:42 AM
  #30  
oxfordgt
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Originally Posted by disposablehero27
well i'm not concerned with weight what so ever really. Again its not going to be dedicated drag. So i'm going to go with the full maximum grip package with non coil overs in the back. This will be a DD first, drag second, so i'm just going to buy the whole damn thing, take that dudes word for it, and if its total **** on the drag strip, call me a road racer, and jazzer and I will become the AX guys I guess. I don't want to weld up, lock up my rear end and not be able to enjoy driving it. Wish me luck. Call me stupid, theres only one way to find out if what they are saying is true. I will be the test rat.

here is what i purchased with a few modifcations, instead of coil overs, went shocks and springs near stock stiffness. Tokico D spec struts, shocks. and the Extreme duty control amrs


http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1038
What are you talking about welding?

God damn that is alot of money. What I showed you would have cost half that and out perform it on the street, strip and track. But it's your money, good luck.
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