Romer

What kinda tune you got on it? Maybe return it to stock or remove some timing just to see if it makes any difference?
Anyway take it to someone who can hear it in person before you tear it down on assumption.

Old Mustanger

A spun rod bearing lives a matter of just a few seconds before throwing a rod.
As soon as the bearing moves even a little, the oil supply is completely closed off, so death is a couple seconds later. The bearings are built up layers of tin, copper, babbit, etc. They are soft and very short lived without proper lubrication at pressure.

The third video you loaded sounds like a main bearing, in particular the main with the thrust washer surfaces. If you do a lot of downshifting this bearing wears out prematurely. The key is that it didn't start knocking until more load/RPMs were added. That would be my guess.

The fourth video sound to me like a broken timing chain tensioner. When they break, the timing chain slaps against the side of the timing housing and that makes a loud racket, but it is at a lower frequency than the rods or mains. That would be my first guess.

Your problem is most likely due to the work that was just done. The odds that your engine suffered a catastrophic failure at the same moment that a mechanic just closed up the engine is rather remote at best.

oxfordgt

Not true I had 3 spun bearings and drove 20min to the house, then 15 to the ford dealer and 15 back after they voided my warranty because of the headers. Still lived until I pulled the engine and rebuilt it.

TEXASx2000xMUSTANGx

Old Mustanger, yes the knocking started at higher rpm's. First time driving it home from the shop after the cam install, the lifters/followers were making a little noise so i wasnt to worried. After a few days it kind of went away, i didnt fully put it to the floor until a few days after i got the car back, and right after i let off is when the knocking began. Even if i only stomp on it for 2-3 seconds it immediatly begins after i let off, if thats helps explain it any.

Old Mustanger

A "spun" rod bearing by definition has it's oil supply completely shut off. A sleeve-type bearing lives as long as it has enough lubricant with a sufficient film strength and pressure to protect it's bearing surface from rotating surfaces. It is physically impossible for it to last more that a couple seconds without proper lubrication.
Rod bearings can wear through the lead/tin Babbitt layers and into the copper layers and still function if it has enough oil flow & pressure, not "long", but it can function if you baby it, but it will not "knock".

A rod will only "knock" momentarily before it launches through the side of your block.

What you heard was most likely (with 99% confidence) main bearings. Main bearings usually do not "spin", so they keep oil flowing. Main bearings will knock awhile before they seize because a crank is fairly stiff and the load is distributed among several bearings.

If you lose too much oil through your mains, the valve train will get quite noisy also due to the upper end of the engine losing oil pressure and proper flow.

In the last 40 years I have trouble shot & built more engines than I can count, I am not guessing here. It is logical deduction from a lot of experience.

Old Mustanger

Noisy valve train is most often caused by insufficient oil flow (assuming hydraulic lifters/followers are used).

Insufficient oil flow can be caused by:
1) Too thin of oil.
2) Not enough oil in the system.
3) Worn out oil pump or clogged up pickup screen.
4) Worn out main bearings using up too much of the oil volume pumped by the oil pump.

Can't explain this, too many variables.

That type of frequency can be main bearings.

BUT,
What you are describing is also kinda like what a 4.6 timing chain sounds like when the auto-tensioner breaks or loses oil pressure.
Since that part of the engine was just serviced, I would look there first.
If you use a mechanic's stethoscope and touch it to the timing chain housing while the engine is knocking, you will instantly hear it rather loudly if that is the issue.

It could be just a coincidence that you developed an engine knock at the same time the engine was just serviced. But, being an Engineer, I do not believe in coincidences. There is almost always a chain of events that leads to a result.

wolverine8490

If I were you, I would be doing a compression/leak down test. Super easy and will 100% eliminate anything valve train related. I swear it sounds just like the F150 I had a bolt down inside the cyl.

Not saying it isn't a spun rod bearing, but it just seems weird that right after the cam install this started. The cam install required valve train work. I would look there first and foremost. Either way, it is one of the two.

wolverine8490

Oh, and if your mains were spun, it usually can be seen by a drop in oil pressure.

oxfordgt

Check the oil for metal

jtb727

This may sound REALLY DUMB.. but one time after a solid pull, parts of my belt shredded. but the belt didnt break.. the belt ran true and straight. and made a ticking EXACTLY like those you have pictured.. what happened is a couple of about 6-10" chunks of rib came off, but the back of the belt stayed together and it would slip, catch, slip catch... sounded exactly like a rod knock... it's a REALLLYYY long shot, but check it.