AC filter
#1
AC filter
I was talking to someone about my AC being weird and he suggested i change the filter and that it was under the glove box, or rather inside it when you take it all out.
Is that the cabin air filter? do these cars even have one of those? Is there some filter or anything under there i can inspect?
my AC compressor turns on and off every 10 seconds or so. My gauge shows the suva pressure is enough but the needle keeps moving up and down on the gauge.
Is that the cabin air filter? do these cars even have one of those? Is there some filter or anything under there i can inspect?
my AC compressor turns on and off every 10 seconds or so. My gauge shows the suva pressure is enough but the needle keeps moving up and down on the gauge.
#2
I was talking to someone about my AC being weird and he suggested i change the filter and that it was under the glove box, or rather inside it when you take it all out.
Is that the cabin air filter? do these cars even have one of those? Is there some filter or anything under there i can inspect?
my AC compressor turns on and off every 10 seconds or so. My gauge shows the suva pressure is enough but the needle keeps moving up and down on the gauge.
Is that the cabin air filter? do these cars even have one of those? Is there some filter or anything under there i can inspect?
my AC compressor turns on and off every 10 seconds or so. My gauge shows the suva pressure is enough but the needle keeps moving up and down on the gauge.
The correct way to diagnose an AC problem with a manifold gauge set...Cliffyk recommends a $50 unit from Harbor Frieght that he has used for quite a while.
#3
there is no such thing as an A/C filter, that is the cabin air filter which im pretty sure we dont have.
the compressor turning on and off is normal, its cycling, and everything it turns on and off the needles will move on the guages, that is what it is suppose to do, if its cold, dont worry about it, its working correctly, if its warm it leaking out or there is a restriction in the system or its overcharged can be many things and needs to be checked.
the compressor turning on and off is normal, its cycling, and everything it turns on and off the needles will move on the guages, that is what it is suppose to do, if its cold, dont worry about it, its working correctly, if its warm it leaking out or there is a restriction in the system or its overcharged can be many things and needs to be checked.
#4
Short cycling is often a sign of a low charge. It could also be a problem with the expansion orifice and/or high-side pressure switch, or its being overfilled.
You make reference to "My gauge shows the suva¹ pressure is enough but the needle keeps moving up and down on the gauge.". Is this a real test set or one of those single gauge colour-coded things that comes with a filler kit--and pretends to tell you something by looking only at the low-side pressure?
I suspect the latter, which means you need to get a real gauge and manifold test set. As 1998Slow' said I have been using HF's set for years now; I also have a Mastercool set that cost nearly 4 times as much and works no better.
Once you get a proper test set make sure both valves are closed and connect the blue hose to the low-side port and red hose to the high-side port. First read the static pressure then start the engine and turn the AC on high, blower on high and windows open. Then proceed as shown on this site--one of the best out there without being overly complex.
You need to know the ambient temperature in order to properly determine the proper charge level. Here is a table showing what should be expected:
Here is how to interpret the relationship of the readings:
Like any job having the proper tools is the key to making it easy...
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¹ - In case anyone is wondering SUVA is Dupont's tradename for their Tetrafluoroethane refrigerants such as R-134a; just as Freon was their tradename for Dichlorodifluoromethane refrigerants like R-12.
Many, even professionals, still refer to the refrigerant in contemporary automotive AC systems as Freon however it hasn't been for almost 20 years.
You make reference to "My gauge shows the suva¹ pressure is enough but the needle keeps moving up and down on the gauge.". Is this a real test set or one of those single gauge colour-coded things that comes with a filler kit--and pretends to tell you something by looking only at the low-side pressure?
I suspect the latter, which means you need to get a real gauge and manifold test set. As 1998Slow' said I have been using HF's set for years now; I also have a Mastercool set that cost nearly 4 times as much and works no better.
Once you get a proper test set make sure both valves are closed and connect the blue hose to the low-side port and red hose to the high-side port. First read the static pressure then start the engine and turn the AC on high, blower on high and windows open. Then proceed as shown on this site--one of the best out there without being overly complex.
You need to know the ambient temperature in order to properly determine the proper charge level. Here is a table showing what should be expected:
Here is how to interpret the relationship of the readings:
Like any job having the proper tools is the key to making it easy...
--------------------------------------------------------
¹ - In case anyone is wondering SUVA is Dupont's tradename for their Tetrafluoroethane refrigerants such as R-134a; just as Freon was their tradename for Dichlorodifluoromethane refrigerants like R-12.
Many, even professionals, still refer to the refrigerant in contemporary automotive AC systems as Freon however it hasn't been for almost 20 years.
#9
#10
SUVA is Dupont's tradename for R-134a, just as Freon was their tradename for R-12. It's kind of funny that as an industry we all called R-12 "Freon" and now call R-134a, "R-134a".
And some still call R-134a "Freon", which it isn't.
"Hunnerd" is how my bubba brother-in-law pronounces "hundred"...
And some still call R-134a "Freon", which it isn't.
"Hunnerd" is how my bubba brother-in-law pronounces "hundred"...