Bmac82

Ok so my car started acting a little funny last night. It's kinda hard to explain but it's almost like my car is on cruise control. My RPM's increase any time I hold the clutch. If I'm just sitting at a red light, in neutral, my RPM's will be at like 2000, then when I shift to first and start to gas it, it boggs down a bit. Really not a comfortable feeling and I have no idea what it could be. I did a little research and I'm hearing AIL, or AIC, or ICL...something like that. I hope this is an easy fix that I can do!

cliffyk

IAC, Idle Air Control, here's how t test it:

99.44% of the time problems such as you describe are a failing/failed Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.

Here is how it can be tested:

• With the engine warm and idling disconnect the IAC electrical connector, the engine rpm should drop significantly or even stall--if it doesn't the IAC is bad buy a new one;
  
  
• You can check the IAC with a multi-meter, unplug the electrical connector and measure the resistance between the two terminals, it should be 6 to 13Ω--if it isn't the IAC is bad, buy a new one;
  
  
• Next check the resistance between each terminal and the IAC body, in both cases it should be better than 10kΩ--if it is less the IAC is bad, buy a new one;

You can also check the voltage between the red wire at the IAC (connector plugged in, key on engine off (KOEO) and ground (the IAC body will work), it should be 12.0V or more--if not you have a wiring problem.

Here's a photo of the IAC and connector:


You likely have the stock upper plenum, it will have a pony on it.

It cannot be a fuse issue as the IAC, all the injectors, the MAF, and two PCM reference voltages are all supplied by the same fuse--I.e. the engine would not run if that fuse were blown...

You should be able to get a new IAC at any FLAPS for $90 or less...

Bmac82

Great advise! I tried cleaning out the IAC with some carb cleaner, reinstalled it and the RPM's were still running high. Then I disconnected the conected and it stalled. Does this mean the IAC is good and my problem is elsewhere?

cliffyk

It means the IAC is maybe good, however Ford is quite specific about:



And though many have cleaned them successfully, just as many have found it to be at best only a temporary fix if it works at all.

Have you done any recent intake tract work?

You may wish to disconnect the battery for 5 - 7 minutes, this will clear the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) in which the PCM stores things like idle air and fuel trims. Clearing it will force the PCM to relearn those values.