Alternator Test Help
09-11-2012, 08:44 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 80
Alternator Test Help
Hi, i am having some charging issues with my 96, and want to know if anyone knows if the single wire going to the stator carries voltage with key on. Trying to see if my wiring is to blame as alt tested good at shop, and new battery.
thanks
thanks
09-11-2012, 01:35 PM
#2
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 12
Ford alternator
Chris
My experience with ford alternators and Mustangs is limited,However I can tell you this : ford alternators last in the vicinity of 110.000 miles . bearing in mind that the charging system is taken care of. the cool part about these alternators if you buy the voltage regulator it comes with all the guts to make it like new! The regulator has the brushes and basically the brains of the alternator . remove the four screws (torx) and remove the entire assembly. what remains is the Rotor and sliprings. Provided that the rotor is not cooked and the sliprings are in good shape you can drop the regulator in pull the pin and you are done with the alternator. Sorry I know your question is about the stator wire but the alternator is so simple to repair. here are some simple guidlines i use to check the charging system:
Battery voltage : simple meter across the terminals should be at 12.0 volts (minimum) same test engine running should be at least 13.5 running
headlights on engine running , lights should be WHITE not yellow in color.
power windows and heater fan should run what you know as normal. you know how fast your windows travel are they unusually slow ? could be a problem.
You will have to remove the alternator to change the regulator .
best of luck with your ride !
Dave
My experience with ford alternators and Mustangs is limited,However I can tell you this : ford alternators last in the vicinity of 110.000 miles . bearing in mind that the charging system is taken care of. the cool part about these alternators if you buy the voltage regulator it comes with all the guts to make it like new! The regulator has the brushes and basically the brains of the alternator . remove the four screws (torx) and remove the entire assembly. what remains is the Rotor and sliprings. Provided that the rotor is not cooked and the sliprings are in good shape you can drop the regulator in pull the pin and you are done with the alternator. Sorry I know your question is about the stator wire but the alternator is so simple to repair. here are some simple guidlines i use to check the charging system:
Battery voltage : simple meter across the terminals should be at 12.0 volts (minimum) same test engine running should be at least 13.5 running
headlights on engine running , lights should be WHITE not yellow in color.
power windows and heater fan should run what you know as normal. you know how fast your windows travel are they unusually slow ? could be a problem.
You will have to remove the alternator to change the regulator . best of luck with your ride !
Dave
09-11-2012, 01:44 PM
#3
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 80
Thanks for the info Dave. Brushes and holder are new, regulator was tested, as was the alternator by a reputable shop. Problem is the battery is not charging.The B+ post on the alternator is the same voltage as the battery.
Thats why im wondering if the stator is not getting the signal to charge because of a broken wire.
Thats why im wondering if the stator is not getting the signal to charge because of a broken wire.
09-11-2012, 07:56 PM
#4
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 12
Try this
So you have been there ! ok have you checked the main battery lead to the back of the alternator for power and if so what about the maxi fuses in the power distribution ? Barring that we can get more specific ,Ill just need more info to go on
Let me know how ya make out !
Dave
Let me know how ya make out !
Dave
09-11-2012, 09:32 PM
#5
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 80
Dave, fuses are good. Alternator output is the same as battery. Meaning there is no rise in voltage with engine running. Fusible links are good, battery light comes on, and goes off when started. I need to know what the exciter wire voltage should be in the on position.
Thanks again
Thanks again
[/QUOTE]
09-12-2012, 09:37 AM
#7
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 12
hit it again !!
props to PRO50sc for the diagram.
OK What I see here :
The exciter : Seems to be the bulb ...Power leaves the ignition switch to the bulb(RESISTOR !), on the other side of the bulb is ground with no engine turning or the belt blown off (key on). Alternator turning KEY on turns the ground into positive and the bulb cannot light with 12+ volts on both sides.
You say bulb is working in accordance with this logic ? lets move on!
tellow wire has 18 gauge link and that is next to another link , You checked links so lets move on..... Dark green wire goes to solinoid piggybacked onto
battery 12v post from battery (direct). no fuses here !
Remaining is the loop from sensing switch to the diod trio. are your plastic plugs broken ? do they have a consistent feel of a metal to metal connection as they slide togeather?
And lets not forget our ole good friend the ground ! next to the starter is usually the main ground others are sporadic through out the engine and other areas if you see anything here that you need to research and get back to have at it and let me know how you make out !
good luck with your trusty steed !!!
Regards
Dave
OK What I see here :
The exciter : Seems to be the bulb ...Power leaves the ignition switch to the bulb(RESISTOR !), on the other side of the bulb is ground with no engine turning or the belt blown off (key on). Alternator turning KEY on turns the ground into positive and the bulb cannot light with 12+ volts on both sides.
You say bulb is working in accordance with this logic ? lets move on!
tellow wire has 18 gauge link and that is next to another link , You checked links so lets move on..... Dark green wire goes to solinoid piggybacked onto
battery 12v post from battery (direct). no fuses here !
Remaining is the loop from sensing switch to the diod trio. are your plastic plugs broken ? do they have a consistent feel of a metal to metal connection as they slide togeather?
And lets not forget our ole good friend the ground ! next to the starter is usually the main ground others are sporadic through out the engine and other areas if you see anything here that you need to research and get back to have at it and let me know how you make out !
good luck with your trusty steed !!!
Regards
Dave
Last edited by Bullseye05; 09-12-2012 at 11:10 AM.
09-12-2012, 12:40 PM
#8
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
