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BBK shorty header install

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Old 10-29-2012, 09:17 PM
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Seabee1993
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Default BBK shorty header install

Since I've got the car apart, and the trans is out, will this make header installation a lot easier? The manifold studs are toast from removal. So why not right?

-Other than PB on the manifold bolts, any other suggestions what to do to prep those for removal? I've got about a week before I attempt this.

-Probably another week or more before she's on the road again waiting on my T-45 to come back with new guts. (Thank you previous owner, and my own stupidity!)

-Another tip would be helpful, supporting the engine with no trans on the back, because I know you have to undo the engine mounts and lift the engine to provide room for the headers to fit. Would a 6" piece of 4" x 4"on a three ton jack be sufficient under the pan? I also have a motorcycle/ATV jack as well to put under the engine if that would work better.
Very limited as to what I have access to, and cash is getting low.
I appreciate any help from you guys, I've had one heck of a weekend battling the exhaust manifolds!
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:47 PM
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cliffyk
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On a 12-year old car you need to be prepared to deal with every conceivable problem, from rounded nuts to stripped/broken studs--the deeper into the rust belt you are the greater the range of potential problems.

A piece of "one-by" will be plenty between the jack and under the pan, the engine does not weigh that much. It will also better "conform" to the load irregularities than a chunk of 4 x 4...
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:07 PM
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motorman524
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It's definitely no easy task, even with shorty headers. You're best bet would've been to drop the k member out and suspend the engine. With the k member out of the way, you can access all of the manifold studs quite easily. As far as the stud removal, if the nuts are rounded, use a quarter inch socket on the ends of the studs to remove them from the head. When I did my header install a couple of weeks ago, I used an impact to get all the bolts off, then went to the quarter inch to remove any studs that stayed in the heads. Correct socket size and air go a long way, I spent all of about 15 minutes on manifold removal.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:49 PM
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Seabee1993
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If I had a way to suspend the engine I would. Sadly, the hard way without is going to be path. I have air, just not the tools to hook it up to. I'm a concrete guy by trade this of course is my hobby. I haveost of the tools, just not pneumatic! The bad part is my hobby happens to be my daily driver...
PB Blaster is my friend, PB blaster is my friend, PB blaster is my friend.... Thanks for you input gents!
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:43 AM
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uberstang1
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Honestly dont even waste your time and money with short tubes u wont see any gains
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:48 AM
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motorman524
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^ what he said.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:41 AM
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^+1, I was not going to say that--but now that it has been said here's a great Headers 101 white paper from the dearly departed S&S Headers that explains why.

Basically it is because the tubes are not long enough (on all "shorties") or of equal length on most...
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:48 AM
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CobraFrenzy
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Originally Posted by motorman524
^ what he said.
what they said ^^
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:23 PM
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Seabee1993
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Well, 100.00 for the headers, and my stock manifolds are thrashed i have to take them off anyways if i wanted to get them fixed. Seems like a good alternative right now. I could care less about gains right now, I just want to be able to drive it, going on three weeks down and up on jacks in my carport.
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:37 PM
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uberstang1
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Originally Posted by Seabee1993
Well, 100.00 for the headers, and my stock manifolds are thrashed i have to take them off anyways if i wanted to get them fixed. Seems like a good alternative right now. I could care less about gains right now, I just want to be able to drive it, going on three weeks down and up on jacks in my carport.
why are they thrashed and why do u have to take them off.
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