Time for new intake manifold?
#1
Time for new intake manifold?
Hi, I'm a new member, new Mustang owner. I have a 2002 Mustang GT convertible. I bought it from an individual and noticed that the small hose from the top of the radiator to the top of the plastic reservoir didn't have a hose clamp at the radiator end and was slowly leaking coolant. I put a clamp on it, then the next day noticed a pretty good coolant leak around where the intake manifold meets the head, right below the thermostat housing. I figure it was a weak spot that finally blew out when I clamped the hose and allowed pressure to build in the system.
I pulled off the intake manifold and the picture below shows what I found. Am I correct in assuming there is no repair for this & that the intake needs to be replaced? Also, is it normal for the area where the manifold contacts the gasket (which looked mostly OK) to be that gunky and wet, even away from the busted area? Any comments and advice on anything else I could look for while I've got it all apart would be appreciated.
I pulled off the intake manifold and the picture below shows what I found. Am I correct in assuming there is no repair for this & that the intake needs to be replaced? Also, is it normal for the area where the manifold contacts the gasket (which looked mostly OK) to be that gunky and wet, even away from the busted area? Any comments and advice on anything else I could look for while I've got it all apart would be appreciated.
#2
Alot of people would replace it. CliffyK here fixed his with JB Weld (the original stuff) and has been holding solid for a long time..trick is patience and cleanliness! If you do replace it go with an FRPP unit.
#3
What you have there is the 100% classic "way the PI intake manifold fails" situation--here is a recent dissertation on how I fixed mine with J-B Weld.
It is normal to have that gunk--but only when the formed gasket peeking out inside the coolant passage fails...
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[edit]
My grandfather always told us "Prepare for the worst and hope for the best, and you will have nothing to worry about.", in that vein I have a nearly new FRPP manifold in my attic that I acquired from a form member shortly after repairing mine. Of course now that I have the new manifold in the attic the J-B Weld repair will never fail...
[/edit]
It is normal to have that gunk--but only when the formed gasket peeking out inside the coolant passage fails...
-----------------------------------------
[edit]
My grandfather always told us "Prepare for the worst and hope for the best, and you will have nothing to worry about.", in that vein I have a nearly new FRPP manifold in my attic that I acquired from a form member shortly after repairing mine. Of course now that I have the new manifold in the attic the J-B Weld repair will never fail...
[/edit]
Last edited by cliffyk; 11-05-2012 at 05:09 PM.
#4
I just went through the exact same s***e with my '04.
I picked up the manifold from Summit and a set of Felpro gaskets from a local parts store.
I recommend using the Felpro gaskets over the O.E. style since they're thicker and can better conform to irregularities in the cylinder head.
I had some pitting in the aluminum head that I remedied with J.B. Weld so combined with the beefier gaskets, everything sealed up well.
I picked up the manifold from Summit and a set of Felpro gaskets from a local parts store.
I recommend using the Felpro gaskets over the O.E. style since they're thicker and can better conform to irregularities in the cylinder head.
I had some pitting in the aluminum head that I remedied with J.B. Weld so combined with the beefier gaskets, everything sealed up well.
#7
Hey guys, thanks for the info and advice. I went ahead and ordered a new FRPP intake, so hopefully I will be up and running by the weekend.
BTW - I never worked on a Mustang before & I'm amazed at how easy it is to get things apart compared to the Hondas & Toyotas I've always had. You could change the alternator in twenty minutes on this thing!
BTW - I never worked on a Mustang before & I'm amazed at how easy it is to get things apart compared to the Hondas & Toyotas I've always had. You could change the alternator in twenty minutes on this thing!
#8
That's because the engine points in the proper direction, and the "right" wheels are making the car go--RWD = Right (as in "correct") Wheel Drive. As opposed to WWD, Wrong (as in front) Wheel Drive...
#10
Thanks for the info guys, the surgery was a success. Of course, now it's raining so I can't put the top down.....;-)
And yes, Cliff, I'm think I'm beginning to come around to your point of view about engine orientation.
And yes, Cliff, I'm think I'm beginning to come around to your point of view about engine orientation.
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