Do I absolutely need C/C Plates?
#1
Do I absolutely need C/C Plates?
Hello all. Well... my Eibach sportlines came in today and AM said on their website they lowered 1.7-front and 1.5-rear. well... the box they came in says anywher from 1.7 to 2.3 inches. well ive heard if its over 2 inches drop i would need cc plates. should i just wait and see what my shop says when they do the alignment or go ahead and purchase them? Thanks guys!
#2
When I got my car the kid before me had just cut the stock springs and when I put my Eibach drag launch springs on that were supposed to lower it 1.5 - 2 inches it actually raised the car 3 inches. I do not have C/C plates and the car drives straight as an arrow. I may have just been lucky though
#3
It really depends on how the car sits. They say it's between X and X because each car will vary.
USUALLY, Sportlines will need them. Install the springs and see if you can get the camber where you need it.
USUALLY, Sportlines will need them. Install the springs and see if you can get the camber where you need it.
#6
The real answer will be when you get your car aligned--if the camber cannot be brought into line (no pun intended) then you will need CC plates.
"Into line" is a subjective thing. The factory spec is -0.50° ±0..75°, for a range of +0.25° to -1.25°. The most negative end of the range is the best setting for a DD as it will provide the best handling with minimal effect on tire wear. -1.5° camber or more affect tire wear (the inside edges will wear prematurely) however it will also improve handling in tight turns to a considerable degree (again no pun intended).
Lowering our cars more than 1-1/2", and retaining the stock CC plates, will almost always push the "best" camber adjustment to more negative than the stock -1.25° maximum. At that point the slots in the strut tower can be elongated as needed to get back to the stock spec. Lowering 1-3/4" or more will always result in excessive negative camber and require aftermarket CC plates.
The proper manner of lowering our cars more than 1-1/2" is to use drop spindles which retain full suspension travel and introduce no alignment issues...
"Into line" is a subjective thing. The factory spec is -0.50° ±0..75°, for a range of +0.25° to -1.25°. The most negative end of the range is the best setting for a DD as it will provide the best handling with minimal effect on tire wear. -1.5° camber or more affect tire wear (the inside edges will wear prematurely) however it will also improve handling in tight turns to a considerable degree (again no pun intended).
Lowering our cars more than 1-1/2", and retaining the stock CC plates, will almost always push the "best" camber adjustment to more negative than the stock -1.25° maximum. At that point the slots in the strut tower can be elongated as needed to get back to the stock spec. Lowering 1-3/4" or more will always result in excessive negative camber and require aftermarket CC plates.
The proper manner of lowering our cars more than 1-1/2" is to use drop spindles which retain full suspension travel and introduce no alignment issues...
#7
Since you're not using drop spindles, I think I can summarize your options:
1. Swap springs, hope it aligns, if not add the plates then. Upside, potentially cheaper, downside, potentially more time consuming and 2 alignments (unless you buy lifetime alignments, but check limitations, for example sometimes they limit you to once every 6 months).
2. Go ahead and do it all at once. Upside, it's done and you know it's right (and only one alignment), but potentially cost more.
You will most likely need them, but maybe 10% chance you do not. I would recommend doing it all at one time, but it you are really on a budget, go with option 1.
1. Swap springs, hope it aligns, if not add the plates then. Upside, potentially cheaper, downside, potentially more time consuming and 2 alignments (unless you buy lifetime alignments, but check limitations, for example sometimes they limit you to once every 6 months).
2. Go ahead and do it all at once. Upside, it's done and you know it's right (and only one alignment), but potentially cost more.
You will most likely need them, but maybe 10% chance you do not. I would recommend doing it all at one time, but it you are really on a budget, go with option 1.
#8
If you can't afford to properly do a mod then don't do it. If you don't get the alignment right after you're done you can wear your tires faster than you would imagine and it will probably handle like crap.
#9
I did my CC plates shocks and struts all at the same time, just makes sense to me to go all in with something like this.