cliffyk

Grab the head of the plug with vise grips, and pull outward on it while turning it anti-clockwise; even use a bar or large screwdriver to pry outward on the vise grips while turning. If you get lucky the plug threads may grab and let you unscrew the plug.

If you can get it out you can buy an oversize drain plug that is self-tapping and magnetized to capture any swarf from re-tapping the threads.

Timesert also makes a repair kit, though it's a lot more $$ than an oversize plug...

Fastblackstang

Yea that might work, but the tin on the pan its self is pretty thin, I don't know how good it would tighten up. Maybe also put a decent thick O-ring big enough to fit on plug they sell plugs like that some have them some don't, which may also add a layer of protection. Then if that is possible to do, tighten it just a little more then snug but do not crank on it. That would most likely hold. Just my honest opinion tho I would probably take the extra time and money if needed and either fix it properly or replace if need be, the last thing I would want is to be is going down the road and have it come loose or something and drain my engine dry and wreck a engine. I have a lot of money in my engine just to ruin it. Idk what your motor situation is but I'm sure you can agree.

Fastblackstang

You may not be able to get another plug to start in because of it turning internally tho, I believe that nut inside is inside a cage type design as well so if for some reason it comes free it will not go flying around and catch the crank or something else internal.

FlamingoGT

Sort of tried this by prying on the bolt while trying to turn it... that didn't work, but doing it this way may work. I am aware of the oversized plugs, and was sort of thinking about that except for Fastblack's comment below.

I'm in a position to believe that the issue is that that nut did break free, so if I do manage to get that bolt out, I am in another world of hurt.

One thing about taking my car to a somewhat honest mechanic on the weekend is that he didn't want to try any harder to get that bolt out without having a replacement pan in case that was the only viable solution. Unfortunately there is none to be found in town, so one has to be ordered.

Until I decide to go that route (or do it myself), he suggested something that I had been thinking about anyway... get a fluid exchanger (or whatever it is called) and pull out all of the old oil I can from the dipstick and change the filter and go from there. While it won't get as much of the fluid changed as doing it the conventional way, it will at least buy me some time until I can get it fixed. It's not leaking now, so don't mess with it until I am ready to fully commit to the worst case.

(it wasn't high on my mod list, but I was thinking of going with tubular K and As... but if I have to drop the K to do the oil pan, what better time than then to just go ahead with this project? Decisions decisions decisions...)

Fastblackstang

As far as doing your oil pan you don't have to drop or remove the sub frame. I believe u can rent or buy a motor lift/support device that sits over top of the motor from basically fender to fender that has a threaded bolt style crank on it and lifts the engine up. Its really not that bad of job it just seems difficult at first. The hardest thing is gonna be to lift up the motor in my opinion it does not have to go sky high all you really need is enough room to get between the oil pick up tube and the sub frame, then the pan should come out only one way. I used a similar device when I wanted to upgrade motor mounts, also another thing you can do once engine is lifted but I would really just replace the pan rather then buy something to suck the oil out of pan and change filter to me that is just a waste of money to me, when you can just apply the money towards a pan and gasket and just do it like on a weekend or something.