Scribbles

A couple of days ago I saved an old '96 GT from a death out to pasture in obscurity, the engine is quite strong and is running an SCT tune, (no tuner included with it unfortunately though), and the flowmasters on it sound pretty good. This is my first Mustang so I'm still trying to figure everything out.

While the heart is strong the rest of the car has some issues that I'm going to have to diagnose before its ready for the road.

These things are working:
Speedo, Tach, Maplights, Headlights, Blinkers, Brake lights and Radio do work.

These things arn't working:
The odometer and trip computer, along with the power windows and locks on both sides and both lighter plugs.

If anyone has a recommendation on what might be a good place start on those electrical problems I would certainly appreciate it, I don't have an owners manual for it, I'm not sure if some of those could be as simple as a bad relay or not.

Cosmetically this old pony is in need of serious work, years of Texas sun have caused some oxidation and failure of the clearcoat in several locations. This carries a bit of a lower priority at the moment, I would like to focus on getting it in better working order before I go too deep into cosmetics, though this old pony will get a quick bath today.

Seabee1993

Check your fuses, then trace wires. A good meter is good to have as well.

MaxxRPM

+1

Also your odometer needs new gears inside the cluster. They're not hard to put in and you can get them at LMR for $40.

Scribbles

Gave the car a deserved bath, and removed the aftermarket rear window tint, since it was about as clear as a glass shower door. The door and quarter window tints are still in decent condition and relatively clear so they've been left in place for now.

Found the owners manual for the 1996 Mustang here:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pub.../96musog1e.pdf

I replaced the Circuit Breaker at location #14 but that didn't solve the window motor issue. (pg 280 - 282)

Checked the High Current fuse panel, checked all three "Ign. Sw." fuses all appear to be good, "cigar lighter" fuse also appears to be good. (pg 282 - 286)

A correction to my original post, the door locks are working, as well as the electric mirrors.

I don't have a meter handy and I've run out of daylight, so I'm done for today.

Scribbles

Removed the passenger door panel today.

The procedure was very similar to this video with the exception that my car has the Mach audio speaker on the sail panel, the mesh/screen cover on the speaker came off with a gentle tug and there was a large screw holding the speaker in place. once the speaker was unscrewed the door panel came off much like was shown in the video.

Picked up a Haynes repair manual and I am studying the wiring diagram now(pg 12-35).

ZeroTX

Once you get everything working, you should look into the PI swap. You can usually find PI heads for $200-250 (both, complete with stock cams) and a used PI intake for $100 (make sure it has aluminum crossover), and you'll add like 50hp to your car.

Scribbles

I'll definitely have to look into that PI swap once I get the car in order, probably after I move in a couple of months.

A quick reference of mods already on the car when I found it: Sony Explode Radio, 3.73 Gears, Strut Tower Brace, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N CAI and Rechargeable air filter, SCT Tune.

ZeroTX

I think those came with factory strut tower braces. The most useful things you have there are tune and gears. Flowmaster makes it sound awesome, though. I'm a Flowmaster-sound guy myself

Scribbles

I wasn't sure about the strut tower brace, I've seen some without it and I know that its sold separately. The flowmasters do make it sound quite nice, I sort of recall reading somewhere that a PI Swap lowers the exhaust note a bit and make it sound a even bit better, does that sound right to you?

JimK

Scribbles,

I too have a 1996 Mustang GT. Here name is Pearl. I recently installed a Accufab 70mm throttle body/plenum combo onto the 4.6L 2v. I had to get a new Steeda strut tower brace because the stock, from the factory, OEM Ford strut tower brace would not clear the Accufab assembly.

Good to know someone like yourself is out there resurrecting a '96 GT !

With regards to the PI heads creating a lower sound, I cannot comment on this. Later this year I will be installing a pair of Trickflow heads with 44cc combustion chambers. This should boost my HP by about 120 rwhp.

Cheers