4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Reassembly time - and questions as I go

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Old 06-26-2013, 05:08 PM
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Doublevision
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Default Reassembly time - and questions as I go

Ok I have the gasket set, Harmonic Balancer, and new heads. I've looked around the web to make sure I get it right and I want to confirm I put these heads on correctly. Please chime in if you have done it and can confirm this question below and any subsequent ones as I go.

I've looked at the head tightening sequence and it appears I torque to 30 lbs, then tighten 90 degrees, then loosen one FULL turn? Again tighten to 30 lbs, then 90 degrees, then an additional 90 degrees, and I'm done. This would mean a total of one half turn past 30 lbs when done. Look right to you?



Cylinder head bolts
4.6L-SOHC
Step 1................................................. .........28 to 31
Step 2................................................. .........Tighten an additional 90-degrees
Step 3................................................. .........Loosen one turn
Step 4................................................. .........28 to 31
Step 5................................................. .........Tighten an additional 90-degrees
Step 6................................................. .........Tighten an additional 90-degrees

ALSO, since these engine are such a BTCH to time I'm very open to timing tips and links. I'll be doing this tonight and I'm reading everything I can, but conversation from others experience is best in my position.

thanks

Last edited by Doublevision; 06-26-2013 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:22 PM
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Stevo86
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Timing these engines is actually super simple. If you don't have the OTC tools to align the crank and cams then set the #1 cylinder at TDC before installing the head and be sure you don't move the crankshaft. I highly recommend the crank alignment tool but it can be done without. Loosen your cam caps and set the camshaft so that the timing mark is at about 11:30 on the P/S and 12:30 on the D/S. Torque the camshaft to 120-140 in lbs or 10-12 ft lbs after installing the head. You do this so when you bolt the head on you don't have your valves open which could bend a valve if not in the proper spot.

After the head is torqued down install the chain guides and chain. Just line up the colored marks on the chain with the timing marks on the crank and cam gears. If the marks won't line up you will need to rotate the cam a tooth or two in either direction. If the marks line up the engine is in time. If not move the cams NOT the crank to line it up. After installing the chain I like to give the cam a little tug counter clockwise (if the chain isn't tight) to tighten the chain after installing the tensioner. Be sure you don't skip a tooth or move the crankshaft until both chains are on.

If your chains don't have marks simply lay them flat end to end. There should be one horizontal link on either side. Mark those and use them. If you aren't using brand new tensioners with the holder already in them, compress them with a vice or c-clamp and use a paper clip or small pick in the small hole to hold the tensioner closed otherwise it is a serious PITA to get the bolts in. Hope that helps.
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:58 PM
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BraMas
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are you using new head bolts? and make sure you bolt them down in sequence
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:11 PM
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Doublevision
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Thanks Stevo for the writeup. I'm eyeballing the timing, no special tools for that. I set #1 by the keyway on the crank and after pulling the head it is perfect at tdc.

Just finished the manifolds and about to set the heads in.


Last edited by Doublevision; 06-26-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:15 PM
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MaxxRPM
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You can't compress the tensioners without using a small screw driver in the first hole to unlock it. Once you do, use a small allen wrench to lock it in the compressed position (in the lower hole). Bolt it on, double check that your alienment marks are accurate and pull the allen wrench...........Then check alienment marks again cause you only get one shot at this.
I thought I could check my alienment after turning the crank twice but the marks on the chain don't line back up.
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:53 PM
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Doublevision
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I dont see a need here for any sealants or otherwise, do you?







Last edited by Doublevision; 06-26-2013 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:46 PM
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Doublevision
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(1) im just goig to have to get creative with getting the dipstick in because im not tearing up the headgasket trying to wiggle the dipstick in.

(2) really hope there was no jackets to seal or anything on that all metal headgasket, but not putting the head bolts in until tomm so i have time to decide.


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Old 06-27-2013, 06:49 AM
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MaxxRPM
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I would think if the head gaskets needed additional sealant it would say so. I used Ford Racing gaskets and they didn't call for any.
I think I just got lucky getting my dipstick in.......but I don't know if I damaged the gasket or not ........yet.

I see why now the shops you called wanted alot to do this. I'm on day 5 this morning but all I have left to do is put the H pipe back in.....

.......Good luck Double!
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:37 AM
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Stevo86
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The only place you need sealer is on the timing cover where the head bolts to the block.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:14 PM
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Doublevision
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Thanks and thanks I'm going to bolt it down dry then here soon today and try to get the rest on and done by 3am or so. Hope to anyway. I did my Ranger in 4 hours from the same spot starting with a new head so if I am comfortable with the timing I'll move along quickly. Only thing I can come up with on the dipstick is to jack the engine up a little, but even with the head off I am still having issue putting the dipstick through the engine mount area just to see how it twists down in there.

Does it go beside the mount, through it, what........
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