TOB constant spinning
08-26-2013, 03:12 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14
TOB constant spinning
I have searched for 2 days with no definitive answers.
Car-
2001 mustang gt (with t-45)
Full bolt ons with 4.10 gears
Issue-
8 months ago I broke the friction plate in my car. I thought it had an aftermarket clutch in it as the trans has been built, has steeda clutch adjustment set including firewall adjuster, cable, and quadrant. But when I got the trans out I found out it was a factory clutch and the car has 115k on it. But drive train is unknown. Okay so I was hurting for money at the time and could not be with out the car. So I bought an autozone clutch kit for 89$. I put it in, thankfully my uncle has a shop with a lift. I tried adjusting the clutch to keep the TOB off the PP. I adjusted the firewall adjuster till the TOB was touching and then backed it off 2 clicks. I then found that the the clutch disengaged 1/2 an inch off the floor. So not knowing anything about it I just adjusted the clutch to about 1/2 depress engagement. TOB started squealing before 500 miles. I drove it till it broke last week. About 15k miles. Yes I know I drive my car a lot. 100 miles a day for work. Okay so I bought a exedy mach 350 clutch and ford racing TOB. Again I could not adjust the TOB to stay off the fingers unless it was engaging at the floor. So I screwed the firewall adjuster all the way in. Took the quadrant off and moved the cable position on the quadrant.
In this picture the cable was at the top most part of the quadrant. I moved it to the left spot. This gave no room to loosen the clutch over time. But the engagement was perfect! About 1/2 way maybe 3/5ths to the floor. A good mid-range engagement. But I get under the car and the TOB is slightly touching, Not making every spin the PP was making but it was moving. I could pull the fork back with my hand enough to make it stop spinning and I remember reading about someone putting a spring on the fork. So I put a spring on the fork to keep the TOB from spinning. That is how its set up now. But I know that it is not right. I should not have to put springs on it. So Can someone please help. I know that was a lot of reading but I wanted to make sure I gave detail in the issue.
I have read that some people think that the cable routing can cause this issue. But my cable comes straight out of the firewall goes to just about the front of the motor and goes down. Bolted to the body and goes beside the oil pan all the way to the trans. A good long curve in it. Nothing tight or bending. Also I probably needed a new fork and pivot ball. But I do not think it would effect it that much. Maybe but I dont know
Car-
2001 mustang gt (with t-45)
Full bolt ons with 4.10 gears
Issue-
8 months ago I broke the friction plate in my car. I thought it had an aftermarket clutch in it as the trans has been built, has steeda clutch adjustment set including firewall adjuster, cable, and quadrant. But when I got the trans out I found out it was a factory clutch and the car has 115k on it. But drive train is unknown. Okay so I was hurting for money at the time and could not be with out the car. So I bought an autozone clutch kit for 89$. I put it in, thankfully my uncle has a shop with a lift. I tried adjusting the clutch to keep the TOB off the PP. I adjusted the firewall adjuster till the TOB was touching and then backed it off 2 clicks. I then found that the the clutch disengaged 1/2 an inch off the floor. So not knowing anything about it I just adjusted the clutch to about 1/2 depress engagement. TOB started squealing before 500 miles. I drove it till it broke last week. About 15k miles. Yes I know I drive my car a lot. 100 miles a day for work. Okay so I bought a exedy mach 350 clutch and ford racing TOB. Again I could not adjust the TOB to stay off the fingers unless it was engaging at the floor. So I screwed the firewall adjuster all the way in. Took the quadrant off and moved the cable position on the quadrant.
In this picture the cable was at the top most part of the quadrant. I moved it to the left spot. This gave no room to loosen the clutch over time. But the engagement was perfect! About 1/2 way maybe 3/5ths to the floor. A good mid-range engagement. But I get under the car and the TOB is slightly touching, Not making every spin the PP was making but it was moving. I could pull the fork back with my hand enough to make it stop spinning and I remember reading about someone putting a spring on the fork. So I put a spring on the fork to keep the TOB from spinning. That is how its set up now. But I know that it is not right. I should not have to put springs on it. So Can someone please help. I know that was a lot of reading but I wanted to make sure I gave detail in the issue.
I have read that some people think that the cable routing can cause this issue. But my cable comes straight out of the firewall goes to just about the front of the motor and goes down. Bolted to the body and goes beside the oil pan all the way to the trans. A good long curve in it. Nothing tight or bending. Also I probably needed a new fork and pivot ball. But I do not think it would effect it that much. Maybe but I dont know
08-26-2013, 05:38 AM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 574
The TOP making a little contact with the pressure plate is fine, that's what it's for. That duralast piece broke right away because it was $89 and made in china.
So long as you have a little freeplay in your clutch it's fine. You could do all the adjusting you want but no matter what you won't get the bearing to stop touching the PP. As soon as you push in the clutch it is only going to disengage so far.
So long as you have a little freeplay in your clutch it's fine. You could do all the adjusting you want but no matter what you won't get the bearing to stop touching the PP. As soon as you push in the clutch it is only going to disengage so far.
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