cliffyk

Oh, you can buy inline fuse holders at any FLAPS.

I you do this a lot, or are like me and enjoy having tools about, a DC current clamp makes it easier.

I have had this 80 A unit from Extech for several years--it will measure mA more accurately than the 200 or 400 A adapters, and can handle starters and charging on most bikes--not cars though...

cliffyk

If after charging for what should have been an appropriate time the battery can only muster 11 V then it has a dead cell...

72MachOne99GT

Yea, I got that part.. battery is a lost cause (again lol)

BUT

Can I still perform the load test on the battery if it's voltage is low?

I was still measuring the 150 mA draw on the bad battery...now I just need to do the put it to sleep process and see if it goes down.

Will a bad battery affect my findings?

cliffyk

The PCM will not power up properly with less than 10.0 V; however you may be able to detetmine something. A fully charged battery should deliver 12.6 V after stabilising for 20 minutes or so (after charging)--you should really fix that problem first...

72MachOne99GT

UGH

so I need another battery before I can even go about trouble shooting again.

just kill me now

If i thought it'd stay around 11 volts I'd go out and do it, but if it doesn't fire up properly with less than 10 volts, I can't make the assumption I'll even be doing anything productive.

cliffyk

Before you just slap in another battery you need to determine why the battery(s?) you previously installed failed. Make sure every ground cable is in place and solidly (physically and electrically) connected back to the negative terminal, and that the path from the generator output to the battery positive terminal is solid and offering only a very low resistance.

Any corrosion/bad connection/other interference with electron flow will between the generator ground and + output will cause the battery to be overcharged and fail because the voltage regulator will not be seeing the actual voltage (state of charge) at the battery.

Measure the resistance between the generator body and the negative battery post (the post, not the terminal connector), and between the generator positive output and the battery's positive post. If either is greater that 0.5 Ω then you have a wiring problem that needs to be resolved.

Next with the engine running measure the voltage between the generator body and the positive battery post--if it is more than 15.0 V then you have a wiring problem that needs to be resolved.

Now measure the voltage across the battery terminals, and then the battery posts--if there is any difference, or if it is less than the above measurement (generator body to battery positive post) then you have a wiring problem that needs to be resolved.

Once all of the above have been brought up to spec then worry about dark current...

72MachOne99GT

Only question I have regarding those 4-5 checks is about the generator and its positive and ground posts.. where or what is the generator on the car?

i have a pretty obvious idea..

screw it, if i sound like an idiot so be it..

I assume we're talking about the alternator

cliffyk

The generator is located at the front top of the engine, it is driven by the serpentine belt and is a key component of the charging system.

From the factory shop manual:

72MachOne99GT

Again though, this goes back to the fact that I need another battery.

I can make the checks between the generator and battery posts with the car off, but as it sits It won't start period (and with a gazillion inches of snow and ice im not able to push start it).

I've never considered the fact that the cars system could be overcharging the battery and that may be causing them to go bad.

Looks like tomorrow after work I'll get to go spend some time in the cold.

cliffyk

See this post for more about the alternator/generator thing...