Default stock manifold leak, looking for tips on swapping out headers.
05-10-2014, 09:54 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 901
Default stock manifold leak, looking for tips on swapping out headers.
Hey guys its been a while since I've been on here. So long story short I've been tracking down this ticking noise when I accelerate in my car for a while now and I'm pretty confident its an exhaust manifold leak on the drivers side. I can feel the warm air coming out with my hand. I plan on just swapping them with a set of shorty headers, unfortunately no one makes shortys anymore aside from BBK and JBA and JBAs are pricey and from what I've read are prone to cracking. And BBKs are no good for 350wbp so I may just night the bullet for the JBAs.
I dont want long tubes because I dont want to make life any more difficult when the time comes to drop the transmission. I already have a catted x pipe and I am supercharged so the scavenging affect means nothing to me. Also I dont want to bottom out on the LTs everywhere I go because Im about 2" lowered. I know the more expensive LTs have ground clearance but u don't want to drop 1.5K on headers.
I've seen many people drop the K to install headers while others are successful doing it by just raising the engine. Anyone have any tips and tricks for removing and installing headers? I've looked around the interwebs but I've only come across vague descriptions. I'm assuming its relatively straight forward. I'd prefer no to drop the K but if its going to make life easy I can. Thanks in advance.
I dont want long tubes because I dont want to make life any more difficult when the time comes to drop the transmission. I already have a catted x pipe and I am supercharged so the scavenging affect means nothing to me. Also I dont want to bottom out on the LTs everywhere I go because Im about 2" lowered. I know the more expensive LTs have ground clearance but u don't want to drop 1.5K on headers.
I've seen many people drop the K to install headers while others are successful doing it by just raising the engine. Anyone have any tips and tricks for removing and installing headers? I've looked around the interwebs but I've only come across vague descriptions. I'm assuming its relatively straight forward. I'd prefer no to drop the K but if its going to make life easy I can. Thanks in advance.
05-10-2014, 10:20 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 451
Don't believe the hype. I have no idea where some people come up with their statements about this header or that. BBK headers are fine. But I would get the ceramic ones instead of the chrome. You'll be fine with them. But def stay away from OBX headers. For your car they are horrible as far as fitment.
For installation, I've seen and heard of some shops in magazines and some people claiming they did the install with the engine still in the car. I do not see how that is possible unless you have a tubular K-Member. Outside of that you will have to drop the K-member or lift the engine. But make sure you do it correctly the first time so as not to have to do it all over again. LT headers are pretty much the way to go BTW.
For installation, I've seen and heard of some shops in magazines and some people claiming they did the install with the engine still in the car. I do not see how that is possible unless you have a tubular K-Member. Outside of that you will have to drop the K-member or lift the engine. But make sure you do it correctly the first time so as not to have to do it all over again. LT headers are pretty much the way to go BTW.
05-11-2014, 05:08 AM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: MA
Posts: 901
Don't believe the hype. I have no idea where some people come up with their statements about this header or that. BBK headers are fine. But I would get the ceramic ones instead of the chrome. You'll be fine with them. But def stay away from OBX headers. For your car they are horrible as far as fitment.
For installation, I've seen and heard of some shops in magazines and some people claiming they did the install with the engine still in the car. I do not see how that is possible unless you have a tubular K-Member. Outside of that you will have to drop the K-member or lift the engine. But make sure you do it correctly the first time so as not to have to do it all over again. LT headers are pretty much the way to go BTW.
For installation, I've seen and heard of some shops in magazines and some people claiming they did the install with the engine still in the car. I do not see how that is possible unless you have a tubular K-Member. Outside of that you will have to drop the K-member or lift the engine. But make sure you do it correctly the first time so as not to have to do it all over again. LT headers are pretty much the way to go BTW.
Like I said before I'm supercharged, so I wont benefit by having LTs like a high revving cammed N/A motor. Also I'm not doing this by choice damn things leaking so I have to fix it :|
Looks like dropping the K it is, thanks
Last edited by MineralGrey; 05-11-2014 at 05:11 AM.
05-11-2014, 12:27 PM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 451
That is just one guy's particular experience. And one experience is not indicative of the whole. I ran BBK st headers on a high compression 4.6 with stage 2 cams...never had a problem with them. I then ran the same headers on a built 4.6 pushing 15 pounds of boost through Patriot stage 2 heads and comp stage 2 cams...never had a problem with them. I would not hesitate at all to run them again. In fact, I have another build I'm about to start and I am def considering using them. And any tuner worth the money he charges will have no troubles at all tuning with those headers. I did my own tuning and I had no problems. So don't let that deter you. However, if the engine is gonna be out already, you might as well get the LT headers.
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