Nitrous Oxide Tuning Advice
#11
The link is correct in general terms, Im simply speaking from experience on the mustang itself. 100 shot or less stock timing would work, any more than 100 we would pull 2 degrees with the handheld. The OP was concerned with the car being slower off the juice, simply trying to offer a way he can meet in the middle.
#13
Okay, I just read that article in the link. I honestly think that for the ease of use setup that I'm going for, a 100-shot will be as big as I can go. I don't want to have to pull timing so much that the car is noticeably slower while off the juice. Running 1-step colder plugs on a regular basis should be no issue.
I think the best way that I can describe my ideal setup is one that is as reliable and ready to use at random as boost pressure is from a supercharger or turbo. I'm probably asking too much ease of use from nitrous.
Another concern is that the bottle can become overheated, and in San Antonio the average temp through out the year is in the 90s and can get as high as 107. I can't carry around something to cool it with all the time, so it looks like when I want to spray it will have to be a well-planned event with all the stars and planets aligned.
From what I understood in that article, the heat is to keep the bottle pressure at approximately 950 psi. So long as I have a nitrous pressure gauge that (accurately) reads around that pressure, does that necessarily mean that that bottle is sufficiently and evenly heated?
Below I've posted an approximate price list for the equipment I think is necessary to run such a reliable setup.
Dual guage pillar 30
Auto Meter Sport Comp II electric oil pressure gauge 95
Auto Meter Sport Comp II nitrous pressure gauge 210
Nitrous Xpress plate system 850
Nitrous Xpress D-4 purge kit 130
MSD digital window switch 160
10 lb. heavy duty fully automatic bottle heater 290
automatic remote bottle opener 300
switch panel (nitrous arm, heater, purge, opener) 60
fuel pressure safety switch 65
dyno tune approx 300-500
total : $ 2,700~
What do you guys think? For a 100-shot should I upgrade the fuel pump/injectors? Should I have a fuel pressure gauge? Is this parts list way overkill?
I think the best way that I can describe my ideal setup is one that is as reliable and ready to use at random as boost pressure is from a supercharger or turbo. I'm probably asking too much ease of use from nitrous.
Another concern is that the bottle can become overheated, and in San Antonio the average temp through out the year is in the 90s and can get as high as 107. I can't carry around something to cool it with all the time, so it looks like when I want to spray it will have to be a well-planned event with all the stars and planets aligned.
From what I understood in that article, the heat is to keep the bottle pressure at approximately 950 psi. So long as I have a nitrous pressure gauge that (accurately) reads around that pressure, does that necessarily mean that that bottle is sufficiently and evenly heated?
Below I've posted an approximate price list for the equipment I think is necessary to run such a reliable setup.
Dual guage pillar 30
Auto Meter Sport Comp II electric oil pressure gauge 95
Auto Meter Sport Comp II nitrous pressure gauge 210
Nitrous Xpress plate system 850
Nitrous Xpress D-4 purge kit 130
MSD digital window switch 160
10 lb. heavy duty fully automatic bottle heater 290
automatic remote bottle opener 300
switch panel (nitrous arm, heater, purge, opener) 60
fuel pressure safety switch 65
dyno tune approx 300-500
total : $ 2,700~
What do you guys think? For a 100-shot should I upgrade the fuel pump/injectors? Should I have a fuel pressure gauge? Is this parts list way overkill?
#14
Okay, I just read that article in the link. I honestly think that for the ease of use setup that I'm going for, a 100-shot will be as big as I can go. I don't want to have to pull timing so much that the car is noticeably slower while off the juice. Running 1-step colder plugs on a regular basis should be no issue.
I think the best way that I can describe my ideal setup is one that is as reliable and ready to use at random as boost pressure is from a supercharger or turbo. I'm probably asking too much ease of use from nitrous.
Another concern is that the bottle can become overheated, and in San Antonio the average temp through out the year is in the 90s and can get as high as 107. I can't carry around something to cool it with all the time, so it looks like when I want to spray it will have to be a well-planned event with all the stars and planets aligned.
From what I understood in that article, the heat is to keep the bottle pressure at approximately 950 psi. So long as I have a nitrous pressure gauge that (accurately) reads around that pressure, does that necessarily mean that that bottle is sufficiently and evenly heated?
Below I've posted an approximate price list for the equipment I think is necessary to run such a reliable setup.
Dual guage pillar 30
Auto Meter Sport Comp II electric oil pressure gauge 95
Auto Meter Sport Comp II nitrous pressure gauge 210
Nitrous Xpress plate system 850
Nitrous Xpress D-4 purge kit 130
MSD digital window switch 160
10 lb. heavy duty fully automatic bottle heater 290
automatic remote bottle opener 300
switch panel (nitrous arm, heater, purge, opener) 60
fuel pressure safety switch 65
dyno tune approx 300-500
total : $ 2,700~
What do you guys think? For a 100-shot should I upgrade the fuel pump/injectors? Should I have a fuel pressure gauge? Is this parts list way overkill?
I think the best way that I can describe my ideal setup is one that is as reliable and ready to use at random as boost pressure is from a supercharger or turbo. I'm probably asking too much ease of use from nitrous.
Another concern is that the bottle can become overheated, and in San Antonio the average temp through out the year is in the 90s and can get as high as 107. I can't carry around something to cool it with all the time, so it looks like when I want to spray it will have to be a well-planned event with all the stars and planets aligned.
From what I understood in that article, the heat is to keep the bottle pressure at approximately 950 psi. So long as I have a nitrous pressure gauge that (accurately) reads around that pressure, does that necessarily mean that that bottle is sufficiently and evenly heated?
Below I've posted an approximate price list for the equipment I think is necessary to run such a reliable setup.
Dual guage pillar 30
Auto Meter Sport Comp II electric oil pressure gauge 95
Auto Meter Sport Comp II nitrous pressure gauge 210
Nitrous Xpress plate system 850
Nitrous Xpress D-4 purge kit 130
MSD digital window switch 160
10 lb. heavy duty fully automatic bottle heater 290
automatic remote bottle opener 300
switch panel (nitrous arm, heater, purge, opener) 60
fuel pressure safety switch 65
dyno tune approx 300-500
total : $ 2,700~
What do you guys think? For a 100-shot should I upgrade the fuel pump/injectors? Should I have a fuel pressure gauge? Is this parts list way overkill?
#15
Okay. I'm pullin' the trigger on this one. I can't buy everything at once, but I'll buy a few things at a time. After I have everything I'll install it all and head to the dyno. Thanks again for all of your help, gentlemen.
#16
I know this isn't any help but I had a good friend when I was in the military and he had a mach 1. He had bolt ons 3.73 gears and was running a dry 90 shot. He consistently made 11.7 1/4 miles however, this was not a daily driver.
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