VTX1800N1

I bought a blue tooth OBD II adapter on Amazon for $25 and paid $5 I think for the Torque app. Together they do everything I'm talking about.

vinny2car

O.k. thanks for the info....I just did the same, when it gets here I'll start checking all of that. I sure hope it works, cuz I just got off the phone with the two most recommended tuner shops around here and they are both booked up for the summer :-(

vinny2car

O.k., I keep getting the P1131 and 1151 codes, and here's the Freeze Frame:


Freeze frame report generated by Torque for Android
================================================== =======


Vehicle VIN: 1FAFP45X92F109548
Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford
Vehicle Calibration ID: þRYAF1T7.HEX


Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 31.765 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 188.6 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = -20.312 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = -22.656 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = -20.312 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = -22.656 %
Fuel pressure = 40.03 psi
Engine RPM = 802.75 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 mph




End of report.


Since the fault occurred at idle and the Fuel Trim numbers are negative, pulling the manifold to change the gaskets seems like a waste of time, right? I don't really know exactly what these numbers are supposed to be or where to go from here :-(

jwog666

by the numbers u posted you do not have a vacuum leak, negative numbers inticate that the pcm is dialing back the ammount of fuel injected, this is because you are running rich, i would check my maf sensor, if that is dirty it will give bad info to the pcm telling it that it is taking in more air than it really is, it will inject extra fuel because of the bad data, and then on the back end the o2 sensors pick up the rich condition and try to pull fuel out, that is the most common cause

Derf00

try a freeze frame at 2500 RPM and see what the fuel trims are. Those at idle are way high.

VTX1800N1

Was this while idling in the driveway or driving down the road at very low RPM? That engine load reading is way too high for just idling.

I think your tune is way off. The injectors are putting way too much fuel into the motor. If you keep running it you're gonna melt the cats. Go back to stock MAF and injectors and run that test again. Those fuel trims are pulling everything they can out of the injectors, and it probably still isn't dialed back enough.

vinny2car

I ran it down the road about a mile and back, then pulled the codes. It has an o/r x-pipe, therefore the cats cannot melt. The car was running like this long before I changed the MAF (which is new, cal'd to the #24's), the coil packs or the injectors themselves. When it first started, I had a stock MAF - it looked clean as could be, but I cleaned it anyway - no change. It also had stock #19 injectors - cleaned them also - no change. Switched to new injectors, retuned, no change. Every time I changed anything, I put it back to stock tune, unhooked the battery for 30 minutes, then retuned. I haven't changed the PCV yet, so I'm going to do that now, although unless it's leaking really bad it's a non-factor.

vinny2car

BTW - the only things that I changed before it started running like this were the T/B, plenum and manifold, so that's why I tend to think it's gotta have something to do with them......just a thought.

jwog666

what is your throttle position voltage and percent? at idle, does your car still have egr? if so after a cold soak, start and idles the engine, and see if the egr valve gets hot, you could be flowing egr at idle, causing a miss, and that causes extra fuel to enter the exhaust

vinny2car

Well as far as the TPS, it's 0.974 at idle stop and when you go full throttle it goes up to about 4.5-4.6. Not sure what you mean about %. I don't know how to check the EGR at idle, except what I was told to do to check it which was at idle, put a vacuum on it. When I did that, it immediately stumbled and almost died, so I figured it was good. When I unplugged the IAC at idle, same thing. Oh duh - just realized that you said how to check it. So just idle it and see if it gets hot. Alright, I'll go do that. How would that affect it throughout the rpm range though? I know it would make it idle crappy, but didn't think EGR would make a difference off-idle.