My 5.4 4 valve Swap begins... 2002 GT
#21
Ok, so we finally started lowering the motor into the car. With my work and being in Mass Mon-Friday, it leaves me only two days to get things done. My friend Bob came by to help me get in lowered in today.
How about some picture ****.
If you install headers before dropping it in, use a cargo ratchet strap around the headers and tighten them to squeeze together. this helps immensely when lowering it into the vehicle.
(Pictures by my fiance, Anna Coppola)
How about some picture ****.
If you install headers before dropping it in, use a cargo ratchet strap around the headers and tighten them to squeeze together. this helps immensely when lowering it into the vehicle.
(Pictures by my fiance, Anna Coppola)
Last edited by Gary Ugarek; 09-13-2015 at 09:52 PM.
#22
So to update we took both the Lincoln navigator harness and the Mustang harness and took elements from each one to make it work.
We removed the coil pack system which was just a plug and play separation of that wiring from the main harness on both vehicles, we wired it into the main ECM power pack connector and also taped the whole kit back together. we expect to lay that in the car this weekend.
We removed the coil pack system which was just a plug and play separation of that wiring from the main harness on both vehicles, we wired it into the main ECM power pack connector and also taped the whole kit back together. we expect to lay that in the car this weekend.
#25
Ok,
so here is another update:
many have said you cannot clear the brake booster with the 5.4L Navigator swap... Bull****tio...
It's close but it can be done.
What you have to do is disconnect the PS line from the booster. Then remove the booster from the firewall by disconnecting the pedal and rod from inside the car, as you place the cover in you then also remove the bracket holding the brake lines closest to the booster. Another bracket about 6-9" further down the K-rail supports the brake lines. This gives you enough clearance to not only install the valve cover but remove it int he event of leaks or when you get a bug up your hoo-Ha for cam changes.
More close up fitment ****.
Now, if you notice I am using the Sullivan intake system: Whether or not it will clear the stock hood is anyone's guess. If you notice the Cruise and throttle cable bracket seems like it will be an impediment. Once we get to hood fitment I will let you guys know for sure.
FYI, we're NOT adding spacing to the K-member. This is stock bolt in fitment.
so here is another update:
many have said you cannot clear the brake booster with the 5.4L Navigator swap... Bull****tio...
It's close but it can be done.
What you have to do is disconnect the PS line from the booster. Then remove the booster from the firewall by disconnecting the pedal and rod from inside the car, as you place the cover in you then also remove the bracket holding the brake lines closest to the booster. Another bracket about 6-9" further down the K-rail supports the brake lines. This gives you enough clearance to not only install the valve cover but remove it int he event of leaks or when you get a bug up your hoo-Ha for cam changes.
More close up fitment ****.
Now, if you notice I am using the Sullivan intake system: Whether or not it will clear the stock hood is anyone's guess. If you notice the Cruise and throttle cable bracket seems like it will be an impediment. Once we get to hood fitment I will let you guys know for sure.
FYI, we're NOT adding spacing to the K-member. This is stock bolt in fitment.
#27
#28
Things came to a full stop. A mechanic friend helping me out decided to blow off finishing his end of the deal so now I have to find someone to help me button up the last of the small ****.
Have some minor extensions to the wiring harness to finish, need the proper oil filter housing, need to get fuel line fittings re-done (He got the wrong fittings), wire starter and electrical back into junction box, fit upper and lower radiator hose, re-mount alternator to left side of motor, and to re-wire throttle cable and clutch cable.
After that it is minor **** like attaching exhaust, and getting it tuned in. Until i can find someone good on the electrical the build comes to a halt.
Uber, you or Steve know anyone that could help a brother out?
Have some minor extensions to the wiring harness to finish, need the proper oil filter housing, need to get fuel line fittings re-done (He got the wrong fittings), wire starter and electrical back into junction box, fit upper and lower radiator hose, re-mount alternator to left side of motor, and to re-wire throttle cable and clutch cable.
After that it is minor **** like attaching exhaust, and getting it tuned in. Until i can find someone good on the electrical the build comes to a halt.
Uber, you or Steve know anyone that could help a brother out?
#29
What wiring actually needs to be done? Im assuming the stock starter harness should work on the 5.4. What other electrical needs to be done? just extending plugs? as of right not was sensors are NOT plugged into the harness.
#30
I have to change injector plugs. Bought a set of 39# injectors, the factory plugs won't fit.
The wiring for the IAC needs to be extended by 3"
The wiring for the Throttle sensor needs to be extended by 8"
Removal of the factory GT Coil Plugs (the navigator coils are already wired in but this dude left the original factory COP plug wires on the damn harness.
The above is just what I know off the top of my head, I am not finished trying to route the thing in the car but so far I have it laid out and everything else fits where it needs too.
The wiring for the IAC needs to be extended by 3"
The wiring for the Throttle sensor needs to be extended by 8"
Removal of the factory GT Coil Plugs (the navigator coils are already wired in but this dude left the original factory COP plug wires on the damn harness.
The above is just what I know off the top of my head, I am not finished trying to route the thing in the car but so far I have it laid out and everything else fits where it needs too.