mpa91

I've owned my 2000 gt for 9 years and have only managed to install the basic bolt ons. I'm now ready for some real horsepower. I've been a silent member on here for years now and I know you guys could point me in the right direction. I have 6500-7500 to play with and not sure which route to take. I don't have any specific goals I just want as much hp with no nitrous. Also I'm looking for advice on specific brands, sizes, etc, not just someone saying to get forged internals, head work, cams and a blower

Thanks!

WJL

Coyote motor

Sandmanbjj

I have a 2001 GT vert. I'm doing the same. Stepping up a little. I am going with a long block from MMR. trick flow heads, Stage 2 cam, forged etc... that falls in your price range. Not sure what you are looking for if you don't want heads, cams, Sc,Turbo or spray. But check out MMR http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com
I'm not an engine builder or have the time or knowledge to build one, so a long block built, degreed, timed, balanced blueprinted etc is perfect for me. Just button it up, and swap my motor in. Might even recoup a few bucks selling the original motor which still runs.
That help any?

school boy

With that amount of funds, I would go with a Kenne Bell, Whipple or a Tork Tech kit.

Z28KLR

Do you have a specific goal or hp number you're trying to hit?

How much of the work are you planning on doing yourself? You have a good budget but if not doing the work yourself a fair amount of it is gonna get sucked up in labor.

Personally I would go with a blower. You can piece together all the stuff you need (centri head unit, bracket, fuel mods, heat exchanger, plumbing and a few other odds n' ends for around $3500), pushing 9 or 10 psi and get up around 400rw. Then use some of the rest of the money for improvements to chassis/suspension and brakes. Install is something that most people with moderate skills and a decent set of tools can knock out in a weekend. If you want to stay n/a and do heads/cams etc the work is a bit more involved.

I know that you wanted more specific info or recommendations but you kinda threw out a bit of a generic question there, so... Once you arrive at the decision of how you want to generate an increase in power and have more specific questions then it will be easier to provide you with more specific answers. There's absolutely nothing wrong with an n/a build but just keep in mind that you're gonna spend $3-4K in parts depending mostly on what heads you use (Trickflow makes the best but they're also a $grand more than anybody else's) and end up with 320ish at the tires, vs 400ish if you went with a blower and spent about the same. IMO, the only way an n/a build makes sense is if you can do the work yourself. Otherwise you're looking at (my best guess here) probably around $1000-1500 in labor plus you'll need some tuning.

Seabee1993

Some other things to consider, you could start first upgrading suspension, brakes, and drive line to handle that new power you're planning on putting to the car if there is any OEM parts remaining. I have about $4k saved and it's all going into trans, rear end, ring and pinion swap, and aluminium driveshaft, That's puts me at $3606.00, that includes fluids, and all the other stuff that's overlooked. My 2000 GT is low mileage, but it's had a rough life from previous owner who was a complete moron when it came to cars. I had considered a Coyote swap and did the math and some research, it's $15K easy, and yes, you can cut corners, but me personally if I'm going to go through all that, engine and everything else had better be new.

movielover40

Unless you want to swap motors you would be better served doing something like a 3:73 rear end to give you more useable speed.

Soldier GT

$2,000- Centri Supercharger ($1500 SC build)
$3,000-MMR 900 Forged Shortblock
$2,000-Install + dyno

If you need help with the SC build let me know.

cominus

Honestly if you're going NA, you're better off with a 302 boss block, stroking it and boring it.

Dragonus18

If you're looking to get some nice power and put you close to the limit of what you can handle than go forced induction. What it would cost you to do heads, cams, manifold, etc vs the gains received in general aren't worth it. The limit of your block is about 400hp. A centrifugal supercharger has the best gains compared to the other blower types out there and it kicks in after you've already made traction which is typical around 2500-3000RPMs. Procharger in general is a very respected brand and the only supercharger that is self-contained so it uses it's own oil and doesn't share it with the engine so if something ever goes wrong with the engine then only the engine is messed up and vise versa. I have a procharger head unit only for sale and I'll give it to you at a discounted price compared to what I'm asking for it if you're interested. You'll need to get the remaining plumbing which shouldn't be too hard. Here's the link to my ad if you're interested.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/part...-for-sale.html

P.S. Feel free to verify any of what I told you here for yourself.